MD C&O Canal Section 5: Noland's Ferry to Brunswick

Spring is full-on and our winter views of the Potomac are now becoming screened by bright green new growth across the flood plain forest. The canal is sometimes dry, sometimes watered. Where there is water there are red-belly sliders and painted turtles hauled out on logs. We heard our first bull frog of the year and a few trilling toads. Pileated woodpeckers were everywhere, as were red-bellied woodpeckers and northern flickers. 

Blue Phlox

Golden Ragwort.

Paw Paw blossoms

Redbuds, Dogwods, and Paw Paw trees were all in bloom - and with the Paw Paws there were our first Zebra Swallowtails for the year.  There were gigantic old Sycamores and ancient old Maples. Boxelder and Tulip Poplar filled in the spaces between the old ones and the river.  But with all the blossoms and buzzing bumblebees and flitting butterflies there was the constant hum of diesel engines and rhythmic rattle and thump of freight and coal trails. Some were just yards from the path and we stopped to watch them all rumble by giving a wave to every engineer. 

Point of Rocks B&) Tunnel (unused)

Point of Rocks Station (c. 1930s) 

Two historic railroad towns are located along this stretch of C&O, Point of Rocks and Brunswick. Of special interest to me was the cliff face at Point of Rocks on the wide curve of river where we heard Turkey Vultures nesting above, Ravens, too. Later, while having late lunch at Points of Rocks station, my sister saw a Peregrine Falcon heading for the cliffs. Ravens are making a big comeback along the Potomac cliffs from Point of Rocks through Western Maryland and its always great to hear them croaking so close by.

Catoctin Aqueduct

Collapsed aqueduct after a flood.

We walked over the fully restored Catoctin Aqueduct and over a board bridge around a washed out culvert which seems to be in line for some repair work. All the while the trains rumbled by until within a mile of Brunswick we began to hear the crash of rail cars and hum of idling diesel engines. Our last mile and a half was crowded with scouts and families on bikes and walking dogs, many of them staying at the campground that sits right on the canal road. It was wonderful to see everyone out and about and being very considerate with masks on while passing us two slow pokes. What really got my attention while passing the campground was the smell of burgers cooking! OMG. So of course we had to go get our late lunch at Boxcar Burgers in town. A great 11.5 mile day followed by a great burger!

Dryad's Saddle, Cerioporus squamosus

OMG were these burgers delicious! 

Till next time, C&O 

MD C&O Canal Section 4: Dickerson Conservation Area to Noland's Ferry, 6 mi.

My sister and I continued our walk on the C&O Canal Towpath where we left off in the fall, at Dickerson Conservation Area to finish at Noland's Ferry six miles upriver. This time we were graced with the good company of nephew Andy. The canal and the river were both full of spring rain and full, bright sun. It was cold, though, with a hard-charging north wind. Even so, woodland wildflowers were beginning to bloom and there were turtles sunning by the hundreds in the canal. There were dozens of Whitetail Deer browsing the forest and a handsome Great Blue Heron in his breeding finery, woods-walking along the inside canal path hunting for frogs. 

Dutchman's Breeches

Virginia Bluebells

Spring Beauties

This stretch is well above the furious Great Falls and here the Potomac shows its age-old penchant for meandering within the broad flood plain - sweeping turns, old oxbow bends, flooded bottom woods.  One moment the river is flowing fifty feet below us and another it is far across the plain where hikers are running their dogs on shoreline trails. The Virginia Bluebells are popping up in the bright sun and some are in bloom dotting the whole wide wet woods in patches of blue.   

Loch 27, near the old Spinks Ferry crossing

The Potomac is wide and shallow as we approached Lock 27 and its meadows of bluebells. It was once the site of a small ferry crossing located between the busy ferry landings at White's and Edward's downstream and other smaller crossings upstream at Noland's and beyond. In low water come late summer and fall, the Confederate Army found it easy to walk across here and in so doing attempted to destroy the canal structures to disrupt commerce between river towns and Washington. They weren't successful thanks to lock keeper Thomas Walter who negotiated (pleaded) against their actions and saved this section from destruction. 

Little Monocacy Culvert with my sister to give scale.

Between Lock 27 and the beautiful culvert arch over the Little Monocacy are the ruins of Dr. Boyd's late 1700's homestead built of familiar red sandstone, but not much of the structure remains except the chimney and hearth. Of course, my nephew Andy and I had to (almost) tumble down the wooded embankment to look back at the beautiful stonework of the culvert.  Just a half mile ahead was the amazingly beautiful Monocacy Aqueduct where we spent some time exploring above, below, and all around this incredible structure that floated canal boats over the wide mouth of the Monocacy River at the Potomac. Swallows twittered-soared out from under the watered arches and fed on early insect hatches. The stone, quarried and transported from Sugarloaf Mountain several miles away, gleamed in the sunlight. It has recently (2005) undergone an extensive restoration and clearing so now hikers and bikers can walk the canal bed over the river. 

Monocacy Aqueduct

Biking through the (unwatered) aqueduct.

Beyond the aqueduct and from the canal towpath we could look deep into open forest that will soon be veiled with greenery. A large herd of Whitetails browsed just across the canal and speaking softly to one gentle doe, we were able to visit with her for some time as others slowly made their way across the fresh green forest bottom munching and wagging their tails. These woods once contained the old Monocacy Trail, a pathway that carried the Tuscarora and Shawnee into South-Central Pennsylvania, although the southern Tuscarora did live temporarily here (hence the modern road name nearby of the Tuscarora Road) on their log walk of displacement from North Carolina in the early 1700s. The area is rich with indigenous archeology dating from 5000 B.C.E. to the mid-1600s and place  names reflect this long, sometimes tumultuous occupation of native people along the river and out on its islands.  

It is good to remember that these landscapes were peopled long before the canal works lent its iconic feats of stonework to the experience of being in this place. The land between the Potomac and the Susquehanna, my home river many days' walk to the north and east, was contested in-between-land where northern and southern tribes fought over resources, raided each other's encampments and towns, and generally made settler expansion difficult if not impossible in these parts before the 1730s. The Piedmont land between the rivers was made inhospitable by war parties for both local tribes and early settler farmers sent into this dangerous frontier by Colonials eager to claim more territory.  More on that history as we progress further along... 

Bluebell meadow.

From the road bridge ruins at Noland's Ferry. 

Noland's Ferry

Our six mile stroll ended at Noland's Ferry, where we were surrounded by the local high school cross-country running team stretching after their towpath running session. We climbed the old bridge ruin to the grassy flat there and had our lunch, looking down at walkers, hikers, bikers, and doggos.  It wasn't our longest walk on the C&O by far but it was one of the most beautiful stretches, a welcome end to winter - though we did shiver like mad up there in the wind on the bridge!

Whites Ford to Noland's Ferry

Note:

White's Ferry was officially closed this past winter (2020) after operating since 1786 due to a long-standing land dispute with Rockland Farm on the Virginia side, but we were happy to hear that negotiations are underway to resolve the dispute and that a local conservation-minded  businessman has stepped in to help reorganize operations and reopen the ferry.  https://wjla.com/news/local/businessman-purchases-historic-potomac-ferry-operation

Nooooo!

On a brighter note, the White's Ferry Grill is still open and DELICIOUS. Thank goodness they had some sweatshirts for sale for because I completely underdressed for this hike. Brrrrrr. 

Sister Laura and nephew Andy on this cold (!) six miler. 

PA-AT Hike: #6 Milesburn Cabin Out-and-Back

8 mi. out-and-back from Shippensburg Road parking area on the AT to Milesburn Cabin.

Milesburn Cabin

This next section was a simple, if not leisurely, out-and-back to the Milesburn Cabin within a mile of where I looped back on my previous hike from Quarry Gap. So while my goal was to connect the last hike to this one, I wasn't worried about the half a mile of road walking to make ends meet. The cabin was rented for the weekend so I couldn't go poking around but Amos did meet up with a bunch of Scouts having trail lunch nearby and he promptly stole a bag of Cheetos from a kid as I was talking to the trip leader. 

Entering from the parking area on Shippensburg Road.

This section of the AT is well within the 60 square miles of land owned by the South Mountain Mining Company that operated several iron furnaces in the area, including Pine Grove Furnace (preserved) and the Big Pond Furnace (ruin) in Michaux State Forest. The Big Pond Furnace was destroyed by a catastrophic fire in 1880 but the environmental effects of a century of having two large furnaces within miles of each other is still evident today.  By the time the CCC was active in this area, with two camps - one near Big Pond Furnace and the other north at Pine Grove Furnace - thousand of pines had been planted by reforestation crews to stabilize the soil. Many of these replanted pine woods survive today and the AT is shaded for a good mile where snow still lays through such a woods on the way to and from the cabin.

AT follows a section of CCC road.

Keeping in mind that none of this forest existed by 1900 having been cut clean off the mountains to make charcoal for the furnaces - makes walking this section of the AT all the more intriguing. I took my time to note the wagon roads and water features. While most hikers simply stick to the trail to get from point A to point B, I spent a good two hours jumping off the path to investigate traces of roads, heaps of rock, and pits that were definite clues to this area's industrial and restorative past.  Some of the roads were purpose-built CCC work roads made to reach areas for tree planting and others retain their 19th century wheel-rutted haul road profile.  

Pileated Woodpecker's square hole. 

The old topo maps for this flat ridge ramble describe the terrain as "watery" and it was true today as snow melt and natural seeps and springs made some of the trail very wet. Trail crews are kept busy building and repairing stone water bars to direct water off the trail through this section but a quick bushwack off trail near these areas revealed wetlands full of calling frogs and skunk cabbage. I found a small hand-dug pond along a flat CCC road (off trail) that simply hollered with wood frogs. Many vernal ponds are found throughout the watery flat ridge and it wasn't hard finding them by the tremendous sound of wood frogs. 

Birch Run Shelter

American Wintergreen

Loop and return.

With the most of the snow now gone it won't be long before spring wildflowers begin to appear along with unfurling skunk cabbage leaves at the seeps and ponds. Most will dry up as spring warms to summer so frog and salamander mating is frantic right now.  I looked - hopefully - for signs of early spring flowers but didn't find any except for the American Wintergreen which still holds some bright red berries and whose winter red leaves are beginning to show signs of chlorophyll returning. 

Stump sprouting!

Some parts of this stretch have been recently logged but the techniques and practices of managed lumber harvest are so much improved for wildlife and biodiversity compared to the stripping of forests by iron furnace companies and "high grading" of the 20th century. Most Pennsylvania forests are not replanted as they did in the CCC era. Instead, great care is given to identifying parent trees that will naturally regenerate an area and to leaving living stumps intact for quick re-sprouting. Using forest management planning today, Pennsylvania forests are regenerating twice as fast as at any time in our history.

Resting by the hand-dug pond along an old CCC road (off the AT). 

Wood Frog

Notes:

Forest Management in Pennsylvania (PennState) https://extension.psu.edu/forest-management-and-timber-harvesting-in-pennsylvania

A comprehensive master plan for the preservation of the South Mountain complex, its history, and future plans of the South Mountain Partnership. https://southmountainpartnership.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/MichauxCLA_DRAFT_2016.pdf

PA Conestoga Trail: Pequea Trolley Line

I love the 2.5 mile out-and-back section of the Conestoga Trail along the old Pequea Trolley Line in  winter. As Pequea Creek tumbles down through the gorge on its way to the Susquehanna River, the level rail grade makes for safe passage through an otherwise steep and dangerous pinch point.  The trolley line once carried thousands of passengers a year from the city to the river from the Martic Station to enjoy summer recreation, fishing, and picnicking.  This must have been a thrilling ride to squeeze through the gorge on the narrow gauge rails.

Pequea Trolley rail trail is a section of the longer Conestoga Trail. 

Amos checks out a side creek.

We have been gifted with lots of snow this year, three feet so far (!), and it really has been wonderful after several winters of little or no snow. A long-lasting snowpack ensures plenty of water for recharging for springs and creeks. I wonder how much of the years-long winter water deficit can be made up in this one snowy season, however?  In any case, it's beautiful to see.  I counted six different animal tracks including skunk, weasel, possum, mouse, white-tailed deer, and otter (on a boulder in the creek).   

A bounding stride of a small weasel.

"The Hole" 

Through the gorge

The rail section is just a short segment of the 60 mile Conestoga Trail that runs the length of Lancaster County. There are plenty of places to do day sections as well as hike it as a long distance trail with good camping sites along the way.  There's even a grueling 24-hour trail run competition. The trail is known for its kick-butt steep and unforgiving rocky hills. Even though this section of relatively flat path is easy to do in any season, I did wear my micro-spikes as the trail comes very close to the high cut bank and the icy creek twenty feet below is no place to wind up. 

Cascade of ice. 

There's a warm up on the way and spring is right around the corner, so I'm trying to keep this winter lodged in my memory because who knows when we will have another like it.  The few people I met on the trail were all there because they too love winter and this section of trail. "It's almost too much to take in," said one hiker. "It's magic," said another.  Soon the snow will be gone and the trail will be full of hikers who have been itching to get back to the path. 

2.5 mile out-and-back 

Hiking is a huge tradition here in Lancaster and York Counties and hiking clubs from both counties will begin spring maintenance days soon. I've signed up for three trail work days and am looking forward to it!  Both the York and Lancaster Clubs were formed in the 1920s during the height of "nature study" at schools and colleges locally.  Here's a historic gem from the 1930s of the Lancaster Hiking Club. Check out all the high tech gear - but I don't see any micro-spikes. 

Notes:

The Lancaster Hiking Club (founded in 1927) https://www.lancasterhikingclub.com/

The York Hiking Club (founded 1932) https://www.yorkhikingclub.com/aboutyhc.html

No Control Hike: PA Game Lands, Holtwood

Me and my big, goofy coonhound, Amos, have been stuck at home for over two weeks now. Not feeling 100% and a landscape full of ice and snow has made it hard to get out to my favorite hiking places but today I couldn't take it any more. We had to get out. The Game Lands unit near me offers a nice 2.5 mile loop and I thought, surely by now, the parking lot was clear and the trails were squashed down by other hikers. But just in case, I strapped on my Kahtoohla Exospikes. I don't want to break another leg. 

The adventure begins.

We arrived to an ice-covered parking lot. Good thing I had my Exospikes, I thought.  Amos jumped out and saw some small thing running in the distance and before I could shut the door we were off. I realized at that very moment I would have been better off on skis. Hanging on for dear life at the end of his 20' lead, Amos pulled me across a field of sorghum and into the pine woods. Then down into the grasslands. Then up to the powerline right-of-way. Trying to regulate our speed I dug in only to find out that Exospikes collect cornstalks, sorghum leaves, small branches, and pine cones. By the time Amos tired out I had a half-bushel of vegetative matter impaled on my boots.

Pine plantation - home of many deer

While I pulled debris off my spikes, Amos caught wind of a deer. More like a whole herd of them bedded down in the pine plantation. Off we went. They caught sight of us and fled. The whites of their eyes and tails were visible for a mile out. I grabbed at several of the evenly spaced trees as we flew by. Amos was now in full coonhound bay. Every living thing in the woods evacuated. His voice carried across the valley and was answered by every hunting dog within five miles. 

Deer exit strategy trail.

We came out on the far side of the pine plantation and Amos decided it was time for a rest. I was huffing and puffing, almost kneeling beside him trying to say something when he started to roll in the snow, a joyful and playful frolic. How cute, I thought. Until I realized he was rolling in horse poop. Amos has a thing about horse poop. For some reason he didn't consume the flavorful muffins this time, but just rolled around like a fool. I ran the other way, hauling his 90 pound self down a slight slope upside down.  My Exospikes were up for the job, however, biting into each deep snow step. Sliding along on his back he loved the ride, jumping to his feet and flipping over again for another few feet of snow-plowing slide. When we were clear of the horse trail I scrubbed him with more snow. I don't think we had gone a mile yet.

Turkey crossing.

Without any warning two tom turkeys marched across the trail ahead and gave us a side-eye glance. Amos is not fond of big birds. A run-in with a guardian goose at a neighbor's farm when he was a puppy has made him fearful of large feathered dinosaurs. He cowered behind me. He shivered. The big birds strutted away, chuckling. Amos was wary of continuing so he circled back the way we came and led me directly back to the parking lot, looking over his shoulder the whole time. There was my vehicle with the door wide open, just as I had left it. 

Home with Towel.

Home we went and though he had lots to say to the many Amish buggies rolling along on the side of the road, he was tired. At home he snuggled with his tattered towel (I put two drops of lavender oil on it in case of horse poop) and he fell straight away asleep. This was Amos' day to burn off some energy and me to discover how little control I have over my life.  

Notes:

Kahtoola Exopikes - Great for picking up corn stalks and pine cones! They work in snow and ice, too.

https://gearjunkie.com/kahtoola-exospikes-hybrid-traction-road-trail

Winter Moss

How must it be, to be moss, that slipcover of rocks? - imagine,

greening in the dark, longing for north, the silence of birds gone south.

How does moss do it, all day in a dank place and never a cough?

a wet dust where light fails, where the chisel  cut the name.

- Bruce Guernsey

Pincushion Moss, Leucobryum glaucum

We came upon a grouping of Pincushion Moss on our walk through a local PA Game Lands unit near home and stopped to admire how the little domes of green occupied a rough, bare patch of ground on the edge of worn-out pasture, grown up now in Beech and young Red Oak.  A tumbled-down field stone wall ran diagonal to an old wagon road uphill of the moss colony. It seemed to serve as a dam that starved this patch of ground of windblown leaves that would have protected the soil from sun scalding and parching. The domes of moss grew independent of each other, separated by shards of weathering rock and dead bits of twig and bark. 

Biocrust atop poor soil.

The poor patch of soil was a lesson in economy of resources, showing us how cobbles and bits of stone lying on top of red iron soil created small pockets of protection against wind and sun and in these pockets grew lichens and other components of a biological crust. In the dips and hollows of soil and stone were tiny bowls of accumulated debris from tattered leaves and bracts, crumbled bits of grass and bark. As the Pincushion Moss establishes more outposts of pioneer domes, this exposed bit of ground will slowly disappear under a blanket of crustal ground cover and maybe, if disturbances can be avoided - the trampling boots of hunters and hikers and the occasional Game Commission truck - it may someday serve as a seedbed for larger plants. 

 

 Haircap Moss garden on rocks along River Road. 

Moss and lichen are the generators of soils. They seem to magically appear in the harshest patches of bare and infertile land. They lay claim to rocks and cliffs.  Given time and no disturbance, they will create gardens of plants growing on and through these colonies of water-retaining, nutrient dispersing beds of green and grey.  Ancient peoples  associated the mosses and lichens with healing properties. Some mosses do have significant medicinal uses including antibiotic and anti-fungal uses. Some, however, are highly toxic and can make a person pretty sick. Like with fungi, it's best to consult an expert source.

Skunk Cabbage and Thuidium delicatulum

As winter progresses - along with this horrid pandemic - I look hopefully to the green growing things that soldier on through the toughest of times and in the toughest of places.  The Skunk Cabbage is up now, a promise of early spring and, along with mounds of Thuidium, there are even the signs of salamanders moving under sodden leaves to find mates and lay eggs.  Soon, says the seep. Soon, says the woods.