Tuesday, July 6, 2021

IL: Earthworks and Mounds

From West Virginia and down the Ohio River Valley to Southern Illinois is part of the region known to be occupied by Edena cultures (800 BCE - 100 CE), mound and earthwork-building people who pre-dated the Mississippian  culture (100 BCE - 500 CE) who I would meet later. I stopped a few times on my way to the Shawnee National Forest to visit various burial mounds and sites of earthen forts. I was surprised to find many of these ancient burial mounds in the center of modern towns which really shouldn't have surprised me since a good townsite is always a good townsite.


Oak Mound Reservation, Clarksburg, WV

Criel Mound, South Charleston, WV

Shawnee Reservation Mound, Dunbar, WV

I want to thank friends at the Serpent Mound Historical Site for setting me up with a Google Map collection of these sites that I could follow as I drove to the Shawnee National Forest. I made sure to spend time at each one and get at least a mile walk in. The human body is not made for extended car rides! Another time I'd like to visit many of the other mound sites and museums on this list. Only the Criel Mound had any real historical information posted - a beautiful set of NPS interpretive panels that answered all my questions. 





I explored along the Ohio River, walking many flat, hot miles to investigate several sites and one museum in and around Metropolis, IL, "Home of Superman," but home also to the excellent Massac Fort State Park. I was able to follow seven miles of bike and walking trails as well as remote farm roads. But yikes was it hot! The small museum at the park contained an excellent collection of stone tools that illustrated the scale of farming taking place in and around the Mississippian Kincaid Mounds complex which I visited just upriver from Fort Massac. I found this site to be pretty lonely, almost forgotten - even the interpretive panels at the small and remote parking lot had been sawn off and carted away. It represents to me the neglect of indigenous and ancient history in this country, an almost willful ignorance. 


Agricultural tools at the Massac Fort museum.

Hunting points in collection at Massac Fort museum, Metropolis, IL

The odd look of this raised mound is due to archeological step trenches.

This lifted complex sits above Ohio flood waters and many platforms were built atop it. 

One of several platforms that would have held a temple or governance buildings. 

While walking the lonely dirt roads around Kincaid Mounds along cut-off river braid lakes and wetlands, I thought about how this agricultural center marked the beginning of industrial agricultural on this continent. Large-scale farming is still ongoing with vast flat fields flung far out in every direction. Bald eagles wheeled overhead and deer raced across the open bend in the river. Modern corn grows now where ancient maize varieties once grew. Floods brought renewed soils to the bottomland. The mound complex, built upon its raised foundation of tons of earth carried to this site by the basketful, kept the town above the waters while the fields received their life-giving silts. 

  
This Google Maps sat-view shows the floods in relation to the complex.


My walks around these sites were more-or-less wanderings where I wasn't too worried about hiking any mileage but concentrated instead on being present in land memory. For someone who spends untold hours reading landscapes, I found these pre-contact archeological sites to be both fascinating in their secretiveness and for hiding-in-plain-sight. I didn't finish my second week due to getting sick ( I will another time) so Cahokia has to wait, but whether I was wandering around rock shelters or mounds, I was taken with how faded modern memory of ancient people is on this land. I was craving a good museum and found a small one at Massac Fort, but I was amazed at how much of a mystery these places still are to us and how much of this history is neglected.


Stone-lined grave, Millstone Bluff, Shawnee National Forest

Petroglyph, eagle/thunderbird. Millstone Bluff.

Depressions of "basements" of house sites.

Just an hour north of Kincaid Mounds in the Shawnee National Forest were Millstone Bluff and Rim Rock National Recreational Trail which contains Middle Woodland sites. I hiked a short (1 mile) bluff trail at Millstone through what had been a village site built on top of an escarpment. Stone-lined box graves could be seen just visible above forest leaf litter.  Ground depressions of home sites and a council house were scattered through the woods. In summer with all the greenery it took a sharp eye to see the layout of houses and commons areas. Petroglyphs carved onto the bluff were slowly disappearing under moss and lichen. I'm glad I spent the extra time to finally find the thunderbird figure.  At Rim Rock the imposing remains of a stout stone defensive wall enclosed the backside of the escarpment where a similar bluff top village had once been. No one knows why these small towns built defensive structures or occupied such high ground against attack. Who were their enemies? What were the threats? 

Defensive wall remains at Rim Rock, Shawnee National Forest.

I worry about the erasure of indigenous history, especially on public lands where we stand the best chance to learn about and appreciate it. The people have not vanished. They are not gone. They are today's Shawnee, Creek, Cherokee, Osage, Sioux, and Ho-Chunk. The trope of "mysteriously vanished people" is still bantered about, however, and it just isn't fair or accurate.  


Large rock shelter at Rim Rock, Shawnee National Forest, IL


The Smithsonian Institute sponsored many scientific expeditions into the Ohio and Mississippi Valleys in the 1800s and Cyrus Thomas' 1894 publication documented the combined research with over 100,000 mounds and earthworks.  Many 19th and early 20th century American archeologists and antiquarians, however, claimed he had undercounted that number by many thousands. Since Thomas' report, the majority of these sites have vanished under the plow, urban/suburban development, mining, highways, railroads, and fell victim to massive looting that completely destroyed thousands of mounds. As sites vanished, so the myth rose that these people were "long gone." In fact, many early 20th century historians claimed that these "lost" people were in no way related to modern indigenous people, unable or unwilling to recognize the living descendants of the Mississippian cultures. These myths have persisted unfortunately. 



One of my best lunch stops during the week was on the day of mounds and earthworks exploration.  Here I sat at a picnic table on a small river barge above the Ohio with visitors Ken and Darleen from northern Ohio who claimed Shawnee heritage. Catfishing was a long-standing tradition in their family and the E-town floating catfish pound and restaurant was a favorite place to eat when in the area. Darleen said she felt a strong connection to the people who lived here hundreds of years ago and was very proud to say her people were "still be here despite it all."  Truly, the BEST catfish I have ever had and real nice company to share it with. 


E-Town Catfish Pound and Restaurant 


Notes:

Informational flyer for Millstone Bluff Archeological Site, Shawnee National Forest. https://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprd3833919.pdf

Informational flyer for Rim Rock National Recreational Trail. https://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprd3806667.pdf

Kincaid Mounds Field School (Southern Illinois University) https://cola.siu.edu/anthro/_common/documents/courses-and-field-schools/about-kincaid.pdf

A nice (long) lecture on ancient indigenous cultures east of the Mississippi by Dr. Anna Guengerich (2015) with lots of art, architecture, and history to-date. 




Sunday, July 4, 2021

IL: Shawnee National Forest - Garden of the Gods

 Shawnee National Forest in Southern Illinois represents the eastern-most extent of the Upper South region of the Ozarks. I wanted to scout the area to learn more about its prehistory, geology, and long distance River to River Trail. Each day I tried to hike 10 miles and spread my hiking out across several state park and USFS sites. I camped on a bluff over the Ohio River just a few miles from Metropolis, IL, Home of Superman (but a great walking and hiking area in its own right). Had it not been for getting sick and deciding to come home after one week of my two planned in the Shawnee Forest, I would have covered more ground but will plan to return and finish my explorations as well as hike the R2R. So here goes...

The Ohio River at the base of the bluff where I camped.

Top of the bluff base camp

I base camped on a lovely bluff overlooking the broad Ohio River on land owned by a local farmer. The Shawnee National Forest covers a lot of ground in Southern Illinois, but from this spot I was able to get to all the places on my list (for week one, anyway) in under an hour's drive. There are several great state park campgrounds that I could have stayed at either in the forest itself or aligned with it but I wanted to try out Hip Camp and loved the fact I was the only one at this beautiful bluff with use of the facilities at the house and barn down the farm lane. I was truly alone but had lots of non-human company including a pack of vocal Coyotes, a loud pair of nest Red-Shouldered Hawks, hooting Great Horned and whooing Barred Owls, screeching Great Crested Flycatchers, barking Tree Frogs, bellowing Bullfrogs, trilling American Toads, squawking Pileated Woodpeckers, and lots of curious White-Tailed Deer. It was, at times, louder than a crowded campground - all night long. Nevermind the almost sub-sonic thrumming of the triple diesel engine pushboats that plied the river night and day. 

Ohio River from the bottom of the bluff - lots of pushboats and barges all hours night & day

Eastern Fence Lizard in breeding colors


I spent a full day hiking the beautiful bluffs and rock formations of Garden of the Gods. At this site the trails intersect and become the River to River Trail for several miles of the R2R's 160 miles to the Mississippi. From the base of the bluffs I could imagine the ancient seas and wind-driven sands. Stark walls of sandstone showed layers of crossbedding, signs of moving water deposition or dune action. On top of the bluffs, water and wind have formed fantastic boulder gardens, slot canyons, and high cliffs. The bluff-top trail system was built by CCC boys in the 1930s, laid as pavements of sandstone slabs and rock-lined paths. 


Ancient Pennsylvania sandstone

Heavily block-jointed stacks

Liesegang Rings - concentric bands of iron oxide.

Sea-stack formations

My first steps on the R2R

Complex erosional histories go crazy here. 


The landscape in and around the Shawnee National Forest has never experienced the effects of glaciation, but it did feel the cold coming from the ice sheets to the north making for lush savanna rich with game animals that would later attract wandering bands of nomadic people.  As the climate warmed and seas formed, these hills faced a huge interior sea. Prior to the ice, continents shifted, faults popped and land masses dropped or rose. Oceans closed, new oceans opened, and seas disappeared from the interior of the what is now the Mid-West. The Ohio River established a braided path through the lowlands while interior streams poured through uplifted plateaus. Ice dams broke, canyons were carved in massive flooding. Savanna turned to forest. People moved from nomadic camps to settlements, some the size of modern cities. You get the sense that nothing is completely lost here. Everything is recorded in the rock and earth and streams. Big history, indeed. 


Trail junction

Woodland hoodoos

Anvil Rock

The trails I chose were either the R2R or wilderness trails that helped me form a loop to return to the bluffs where I parked. All were multi-use trails with high equestrian use. I had to step aside numerous times for trail riding groups and glop through muddy holes where no trail existed save for calf-deep mud. I came across two USFS field biologists who were doing salamander surveys of various sites. They admitted that trail conditions are poor in the Garden of the Gods area after heavy rains or snowmelt and that most local hikers stay clear of the place because of equestrian over-use. On the positive side, however, trails riders do keep trails open and maintained, especially where there are horse camps nearby or parking areas for trailers and trailer-camps. 

Forest HQ is about fifteen miles north of the forest on the edge of town. It was closed. 

Woodland Sunflower

The biologists suggested that I take a drive north to the USFS Shawnee National Forest headquarters for maps and brochures that could help me chose trails that were not as degraded as those in the Garden of the Gods area - or wait till things dry out a bit and come back. I decided to head to town after my hike but found HQ closed, like many federal agency buildings this COVID year. But I did get to meet a recent R2R thru-hiker who gave me excellent advice the best times of year to hike. As we stood in front of a well-stocked informational kiosk just outside the locked building she took a look at my plans for the week and thought I'd do fine for ten-mile-a-day hikes at the sites I chose. "The worst is behind you!" 


Notes:

Guide to the Geology of the Garden of the Gods (Illinois University) https://library.isgs.illinois.edu/Pubs/pdfs/ftgb/ftgb2009B-gardenofthegods.pdf

USFS Shawnee National Forest https://www.fs.usda.gov/shawnee/



Saturday, July 3, 2021

IN: Indiana Dunes National Park and Cowles Bog Trail

I made a half-day pilgrimage to a special place while heading back home after an agriculture conference in Iowa and stopped to hike and honor the memory of Henry Chandler Cowles. Known as the Father of Ecology in American natural sciences, it was Henry's intense study of the southern shore of Lake Michigan that transformed how we think about plants and plant communities as highly adaptable and responsive to fast changing environments. He is known as the Father of American Ecology and his work as a ecologist/botanist teacher influenced generations of future conservationists, plant ecologists, and landscape ecologists. 


Driving winds out of the north raise angry waves and push tons of sand landward

Marram grass anchors sand on the backshore.

Marram grass, Ammophila brevilugilata 

Cowles traveled thousands of times between the University of Chicago where he taught botany to these windswept southern shores to study the effects of wind on moving sand dunes and how plant communities adapted to harsh, always-in-motion conditions. He studied the way dunes traveled inland and how plant debris caught up in the sands created seed beds and top soils for different plant communities. He focused on the concepts of plant succession.  Starting with Marram Grass he was able to create living laboratories of ecological relationships of plant life to abiotic factors such as water table, shifting sands, and climate. These studies attracted students and the public alike - everyone taking an intense interest in the amazing variety of plant life to be found in the Indiana Dunes region of the southern lake shore.


Transitory dune scrub pine and cottonwood forest

Scrub forest gives way to more stabilizing mature forest.


Black Oak savanna 

Cowles' ideas include the concept of climax communities, in this case mature Black Oak forest that described a very stable environment. The only situation in which a climax forest would change, he argued, was if a critical disruption like flood, fire, or removal were to occur. He traveled all over the country to compare dune ecosystems, from Great Lake shores to New England beaches, to interior dune lands of Montana, Illinois, and Tennessee. His concepts of succession and climax sparked a scientific tidal wave of interest the new field of ecology. His botany classes filled to capacity (for thirty years!) and he was ever on the move - like his beloved dunes - traveling in summers to host teams of European ecologists to see the ecosystems of the U.S.


Inter-dune landscapes include fens, vernal ponds, and marshes. Note the beaver lodge (center left)

Understory plants form diverse communities depending on aspect, slope, moisture, and soil.

Woodland Sunflower

Red Raspberry Slime Mold

From all of his travels and intense study of how plant communities adapt to changing conditions, groups of scientists formed around the ideas of plant evolution, ecosystems, and habitats. These groups coalesced as the Ecological Society of America (1913) which is still an important scientific professional group today. ESA also gave rise to several sibling groups including the Nature Conservancy and regional conservation organizations. Regional groups around the Great Lakes region, especially for the southern shore of Lake Michigan, pulled together to fight for the conservation of these important biological sites. These landscapes were Cowles' first laboratories and they are conserved by a number of public lands agencies including Indiana State Parks and the National Park Service.  


Butterfly Milkweed


Prairie Phlox




Common St. Johnswort

I walked the 4.5 mile trail that formed a figure-8 through the foreshore and back dune area and thought about how Cowles' idea have survived over the last century. Like the ever-changing communities he studied even his ideas that were so popular as to start a movement in ecological science have adapted. We no longer think of climax forests as the stopping point of plant community development where "mature" forests mean the end of community change. Now we understand that mature and old growth forest continue to develop and adapt as environmental factors punctuate and shift how communities respond to pest invasions, climate change, air quality, or fire. There is no real climax stage after all, but I think Henry would be perfectly fine with this idea since he was, after all, testing our capacity to accept the concepts of change and evolution in the natural world. 

American Toad

A very steep climb! 

Dedicated to the ecological work of Henry Chandler Cowles


I've made a promise to come back. A few hours of hiking and botanizing wasn't enough to really absorb the rich biological treasure that this area contains. The place intrigues me for other reasons, too, like how residential and industrial areas threaten or compliment what is saved. How are human communities working together to protect the integrity of the Indiana Dunes? (or not) What are the biggest threats to conserving a changing landscape of wind, sand, and forest?  But for now, wandering the trails of the Cowles Bog Area, I thanked him for inventing field trips and believing that women could be a-m-a-z-i-n-g ecologists - his own important contribution to the idea that succession happens in science teaching, too. 


Dr. Cowles and his students, University of Chicago (early 1900s) NPS


To those wanting to hike this area, just know that hiking on sand or sandy trails is very different than woodland trails. Even just a few miles out-and-back on this trail involved some very steep climbing on shifting surfaces and what might take me less than an hour to cover at home in PA woods took me about three hours (with lots of stops for plant gawking and toad visits).


Note how the National Park section is book-ended by a power plant and shorefront homes.





Notes:

Henry Chandler Cowles/ National Geographic https://www.nationalgeographic.org/article/henry-chandler-cowles/

Indiana Dunes National Park  https://www.nps.gov/indu/index.htm

Indiana Dunes Plant Guide. A home owners guide to gardening and conserving dune plants in the home landscape. https://www.indunesguide.com/

Indiana Dunes State Park - A state park within a national park! https://www.in.gov/dnr/state-parks/parks-lakes/indiana-dunes-state-park/

Henry Chandler Cowles: Pioneer Ecologist. Victor Cassidy (2007)  https://www.worldcat.org/title/henry-chandler-cowles-pioneer-ecologist/oclc/77716610