Sunday, July 4, 2021

IL: Shawnee National Forest - Garden of the Gods

 Shawnee National Forest in Southern Illinois represents the eastern-most extent of the Upper South region of the Ozarks. I wanted to scout the area to learn more about its prehistory, geology, and long distance River to River Trail. Each day I tried to hike 10 miles and spread my hiking out across several state park and USFS sites. I camped on a bluff over the Ohio River just a few miles from Metropolis, IL, Home of Superman (but a great walking and hiking area in its own right). Had it not been for getting sick and deciding to come home after one week of my two planned in the Shawnee Forest, I would have covered more ground but will plan to return and finish my explorations as well as hike the R2R. So here goes...

The Ohio River at the base of the bluff where I camped.

Top of the bluff base camp

I base camped on a lovely bluff overlooking the broad Ohio River on land owned by a local farmer. The Shawnee National Forest covers a lot of ground in Southern Illinois, but from this spot I was able to get to all the places on my list (for week one, anyway) in under an hour's drive. There are several great state park campgrounds that I could have stayed at either in the forest itself or aligned with it but I wanted to try out Hip Camp and loved the fact I was the only one at this beautiful bluff with use of the facilities at the house and barn down the farm lane. I was truly alone but had lots of non-human company including a pack of vocal Coyotes, a loud pair of nest Red-Shouldered Hawks, hooting Great Horned and whooing Barred Owls, screeching Great Crested Flycatchers, barking Tree Frogs, bellowing Bullfrogs, trilling American Toads, squawking Pileated Woodpeckers, and lots of curious White-Tailed Deer. It was, at times, louder than a crowded campground - all night long. Nevermind the almost sub-sonic thrumming of the triple diesel engine pushboats that plied the river night and day. 

Ohio River from the bottom of the bluff - lots of pushboats and barges all hours night & day

Eastern Fence Lizard in breeding colors


I spent a full day hiking the beautiful bluffs and rock formations of Garden of the Gods. At this site the trails intersect and become the River to River Trail for several miles of the R2R's 160 miles to the Mississippi. From the base of the bluffs I could imagine the ancient seas and wind-driven sands. Stark walls of sandstone showed layers of crossbedding, signs of moving water deposition or dune action. On top of the bluffs, water and wind have formed fantastic boulder gardens, slot canyons, and high cliffs. The bluff-top trail system was built by CCC boys in the 1930s, laid as pavements of sandstone slabs and rock-lined paths. 


Ancient Pennsylvania sandstone

Heavily block-jointed stacks

Liesegang Rings - concentric bands of iron oxide.

Sea-stack formations

My first steps on the R2R

Complex erosional histories go crazy here. 


The landscape in and around the Shawnee National Forest has never experienced the effects of glaciation, but it did feel the cold coming from the ice sheets to the north making for lush savanna rich with game animals that would later attract wandering bands of nomadic people.  As the climate warmed and seas formed, these hills faced a huge interior sea. Prior to the ice, continents shifted, faults popped and land masses dropped or rose. Oceans closed, new oceans opened, and seas disappeared from the interior of the what is now the Mid-West. The Ohio River established a braided path through the lowlands while interior streams poured through uplifted plateaus. Ice dams broke, canyons were carved in massive flooding. Savanna turned to forest. People moved from nomadic camps to settlements, some the size of modern cities. You get the sense that nothing is completely lost here. Everything is recorded in the rock and earth and streams. Big history, indeed. 


Trail junction

Woodland hoodoos

Anvil Rock

The trails I chose were either the R2R or wilderness trails that helped me form a loop to return to the bluffs where I parked. All were multi-use trails with high equestrian use. I had to step aside numerous times for trail riding groups and glop through muddy holes where no trail existed save for calf-deep mud. I came across two USFS field biologists who were doing salamander surveys of various sites. They admitted that trail conditions are poor in the Garden of the Gods area after heavy rains or snowmelt and that most local hikers stay clear of the place because of equestrian over-use. On the positive side, however, trails riders do keep trails open and maintained, especially where there are horse camps nearby or parking areas for trailers and trailer-camps. 

Forest HQ is about fifteen miles north of the forest on the edge of town. It was closed. 

Woodland Sunflower

The biologists suggested that I take a drive north to the USFS Shawnee National Forest headquarters for maps and brochures that could help me chose trails that were not as degraded as those in the Garden of the Gods area - or wait till things dry out a bit and come back. I decided to head to town after my hike but found HQ closed, like many federal agency buildings this COVID year. But I did get to meet a recent R2R thru-hiker who gave me excellent advice the best times of year to hike. As we stood in front of a well-stocked informational kiosk just outside the locked building she took a look at my plans for the week and thought I'd do fine for ten-mile-a-day hikes at the sites I chose. "The worst is behind you!" 


Notes:

Guide to the Geology of the Garden of the Gods (Illinois University) https://library.isgs.illinois.edu/Pubs/pdfs/ftgb/ftgb2009B-gardenofthegods.pdf

USFS Shawnee National Forest https://www.fs.usda.gov/shawnee/



Saturday, July 3, 2021

IN: Indiana Dunes National Park and Cowles Bog Trail

I made a half-day pilgrimage to a special place while heading back home after an agriculture conference in Iowa and stopped to hike and honor the memory of Henry Chandler Cowles. Known as the Father of Ecology in American natural sciences, it was Henry's intense study of the southern shore of Lake Michigan that transformed how we think about plants and plant communities as highly adaptable and responsive to fast changing environments. He is known as the Father of American Ecology and his work as a ecologist/botanist teacher influenced generations of future conservationists, plant ecologists, and landscape ecologists. 


Driving winds out of the north raise angry waves and push tons of sand landward

Marram grass anchors sand on the backshore.

Marram grass, Ammophila brevilugilata 

Cowles traveled thousands of times between the University of Chicago where he taught botany to these windswept southern shores to study the effects of wind on moving sand dunes and how plant communities adapted to harsh, always-in-motion conditions. He studied the way dunes traveled inland and how plant debris caught up in the sands created seed beds and top soils for different plant communities. He focused on the concepts of plant succession.  Starting with Marram Grass he was able to create living laboratories of ecological relationships of plant life to abiotic factors such as water table, shifting sands, and climate. These studies attracted students and the public alike - everyone taking an intense interest in the amazing variety of plant life to be found in the Indiana Dunes region of the southern lake shore.


Transitory dune scrub pine and cottonwood forest

Scrub forest gives way to more stabilizing mature forest.


Black Oak savanna 

Cowles' ideas include the concept of climax communities, in this case mature Black Oak forest that described a very stable environment. The only situation in which a climax forest would change, he argued, was if a critical disruption like flood, fire, or removal were to occur. He traveled all over the country to compare dune ecosystems, from Great Lake shores to New England beaches, to interior dune lands of Montana, Illinois, and Tennessee. His concepts of succession and climax sparked a scientific tidal wave of interest the new field of ecology. His botany classes filled to capacity (for thirty years!) and he was ever on the move - like his beloved dunes - traveling in summers to host teams of European ecologists to see the ecosystems of the U.S.


Inter-dune landscapes include fens, vernal ponds, and marshes. Note the beaver lodge (center left)

Understory plants form diverse communities depending on aspect, slope, moisture, and soil.

Woodland Sunflower

Red Raspberry Slime Mold

From all of his travels and intense study of how plant communities adapt to changing conditions, groups of scientists formed around the ideas of plant evolution, ecosystems, and habitats. These groups coalesced as the Ecological Society of America (1913) which is still an important scientific professional group today. ESA also gave rise to several sibling groups including the Nature Conservancy and regional conservation organizations. Regional groups around the Great Lakes region, especially for the southern shore of Lake Michigan, pulled together to fight for the conservation of these important biological sites. These landscapes were Cowles' first laboratories and they are conserved by a number of public lands agencies including Indiana State Parks and the National Park Service.  


Butterfly Milkweed


Prairie Phlox




Common St. Johnswort

I walked the 4.5 mile trail that formed a figure-8 through the foreshore and back dune area and thought about how Cowles' idea have survived over the last century. Like the ever-changing communities he studied even his ideas that were so popular as to start a movement in ecological science have adapted. We no longer think of climax forests as the stopping point of plant community development where "mature" forests mean the end of community change. Now we understand that mature and old growth forest continue to develop and adapt as environmental factors punctuate and shift how communities respond to pest invasions, climate change, air quality, or fire. There is no real climax stage after all, but I think Henry would be perfectly fine with this idea since he was, after all, testing our capacity to accept the concepts of change and evolution in the natural world. 

American Toad

A very steep climb! 

Dedicated to the ecological work of Henry Chandler Cowles


I've made a promise to come back. A few hours of hiking and botanizing wasn't enough to really absorb the rich biological treasure that this area contains. The place intrigues me for other reasons, too, like how residential and industrial areas threaten or compliment what is saved. How are human communities working together to protect the integrity of the Indiana Dunes? (or not) What are the biggest threats to conserving a changing landscape of wind, sand, and forest?  But for now, wandering the trails of the Cowles Bog Area, I thanked him for inventing field trips and believing that women could be a-m-a-z-i-n-g ecologists - his own important contribution to the idea that succession happens in science teaching, too. 


Dr. Cowles and his students, University of Chicago (early 1900s) NPS


To those wanting to hike this area, just know that hiking on sand or sandy trails is very different than woodland trails. Even just a few miles out-and-back on this trail involved some very steep climbing on shifting surfaces and what might take me less than an hour to cover at home in PA woods took me about three hours (with lots of stops for plant gawking and toad visits).


Note how the National Park section is book-ended by a power plant and shorefront homes.





Notes:

Henry Chandler Cowles/ National Geographic https://www.nationalgeographic.org/article/henry-chandler-cowles/

Indiana Dunes National Park  https://www.nps.gov/indu/index.htm

Indiana Dunes Plant Guide. A home owners guide to gardening and conserving dune plants in the home landscape. https://www.indunesguide.com/

Indiana Dunes State Park - A state park within a national park! https://www.in.gov/dnr/state-parks/parks-lakes/indiana-dunes-state-park/

Henry Chandler Cowles: Pioneer Ecologist. Victor Cassidy (2007)  https://www.worldcat.org/title/henry-chandler-cowles-pioneer-ecologist/oclc/77716610





Sunday, June 27, 2021

PA Greenwood Furnace State Park

Whelp. After getting really sick with a bad case of diverticulitis that lasted a few days, I gave up the prospect of continuing my two week Mid-West hiking trip and headed home. To try to salvage the second week, I booked a campsite for a few days at Greenwood Furnace State Park in the PA mountains south of State College, the home campus of PennState (We Are!)

Rothrock State Forest entrance

It was exactly what the doctor ordered. I took Amos, my long-suffering hiking buddy who I left at home during my Illinois adventure. He was mad at me for most of the two hour drive but when he saw the tent come out of the truck, his favorite camping blanket, and his travel bowls, he was all in for a few days in the park.  He's such a great camper.

Hiking around the quarry lake on this cool trail.

For three days we hiked about ten miles a day on various trails that connected to the park including a section of the Standing Stone Trail (which I want to thru-hike someday), and two trails in nearby areas of Rothrock State Forest. The campground was small but nearly half empty. We had the park and the forest to ourselves. Each day walking I felt a little better and Amos was as happy as a clam.


Hardened iron bloom remaining in the crucible.

Ruins of Furnace Stack #1

Looking up at the feedstock inlet, Furnace Stack #2 (CCC-renovation)


The park is the site of the Greenwood Furnace, one of many large iron furnaces in the area that operated to produce iron from the ore-rich banks that run the length of these mountains. Some features of the large 19th century village remain and a trail follows past the iron masters house, church, meat house, stables, blacksmith shop, and wagon yard. The quarry lake is now a beautiful place to fish or swim. We followed the lake trail all the way around and snagged a few miles on the Standing Stone Trail.


Foxglove beardtongue, Penstemon digitalis


Our second day we were a little more ambitious with an eight mile rainy day loop through the forest and later, a visit to the Alan Seeger Natural Area for a mile-long walk through old growth hemlock under cooler and sunnier skies.  This trail intersected a section of the Mid-State and Standing Stone Trail so we hopped on it for another mile or so. All around us were the remains of ancient hemlocks that had succumbed to the Wooly Adelgid infestation. Some of these old giants were five-hundred years old by the time this forest pest ended their lives. Still, there were plenty of old trees still standing despite the outbreak and an interpretive panel at the end of the hike described this old forest as "coping" and not doomed. 


Alan Seeger Natural Area - a 500 year-old giant on the right.

Rhododendron

Ancient hemlock killed off by Hemlock Wooly Adelgid

Someday I'll thru-hike this beautiful long distance trail. 


On day three of my salvage trip into the forest, Amos and I hiked the Whipple Lake Trail (3 miles) and another section of Standing Stone (5 miles) then back to the park to pack up. It was a deliciously cool morning and though we were finished with our hiking in Rothrock for now, we snuck in another 3 miles following the Turkey Hill Road ( a gravel forest road) and looping back on the Lawrence Trail.  Named for a child whose grave is found in the nearby 18th-19th century Greenwood Furnace Cemetery, we stopped in to visit his grave site and the graves of several Revolutionary and Civil War veterans. 


Whipple Lake Trail at Whipple Dam State Park



Gravesite of Daniel Grey, Revolutionary War veteran, Greenwood Furnace Cemetery 

Gravesite of Lawrence Troy, 6 mo, 1881.

Greenwood Furnace Cemetery


Whipple Dam State Park and Greenwood Furnace State Park are a dream for CCC history-buffs.  I spent a lot of time photographing some of the best CCC structures I've seen in a long time. Some of these structures are massive - like picnic pavilions or large cabins - while other structures seem to occupy less space. But are all rustic and built to last another hundred years. 


Ranger's HQ at Whipple Dam State Park. Owls Gap Camp S-60-PA, 1933-1941.

Old picnic day use area, small covered picnic shelter. Whipple Dam CCC, Owls Gap Camp.

Large group pavilion and fireplace, Greenwood Furnace Camp, S-59-PA, 1935.

Greenwood Furnace Stack #2 Reconstruction, CCC 1936.