Saturday, July 3, 2021

IN: Indiana Dunes National Park and Cowles Bog Trail

I made a half-day pilgrimage to a special place while heading back home after an agriculture conference in Iowa and stopped to hike and honor the memory of Henry Chandler Cowles. Known as the Father of Ecology in American natural sciences, it was Henry's intense study of the southern shore of Lake Michigan that transformed how we think about plants and plant communities as highly adaptable and responsive to fast changing environments. He is known as the Father of American Ecology and his work as a ecologist/botanist teacher influenced generations of future conservationists, plant ecologists, and landscape ecologists. 


Driving winds out of the north raise angry waves and push tons of sand landward

Marram grass anchors sand on the backshore.

Marram grass, Ammophila brevilugilata 

Cowles traveled thousands of times between the University of Chicago where he taught botany to these windswept southern shores to study the effects of wind on moving sand dunes and how plant communities adapted to harsh, always-in-motion conditions. He studied the way dunes traveled inland and how plant debris caught up in the sands created seed beds and top soils for different plant communities. He focused on the concepts of plant succession.  Starting with Marram Grass he was able to create living laboratories of ecological relationships of plant life to abiotic factors such as water table, shifting sands, and climate. These studies attracted students and the public alike - everyone taking an intense interest in the amazing variety of plant life to be found in the Indiana Dunes region of the southern lake shore.


Transitory dune scrub pine and cottonwood forest

Scrub forest gives way to more stabilizing mature forest.


Black Oak savanna 

Cowles' ideas include the concept of climax communities, in this case mature Black Oak forest that described a very stable environment. The only situation in which a climax forest would change, he argued, was if a critical disruption like flood, fire, or removal were to occur. He traveled all over the country to compare dune ecosystems, from Great Lake shores to New England beaches, to interior dune lands of Montana, Illinois, and Tennessee. His concepts of succession and climax sparked a scientific tidal wave of interest the new field of ecology. His botany classes filled to capacity (for thirty years!) and he was ever on the move - like his beloved dunes - traveling in summers to host teams of European ecologists to see the ecosystems of the U.S.


Inter-dune landscapes include fens, vernal ponds, and marshes. Note the beaver lodge (center left)

Understory plants form diverse communities depending on aspect, slope, moisture, and soil.

Woodland Sunflower

Red Raspberry Slime Mold

From all of his travels and intense study of how plant communities adapt to changing conditions, groups of scientists formed around the ideas of plant evolution, ecosystems, and habitats. These groups coalesced as the Ecological Society of America (1913) which is still an important scientific professional group today. ESA also gave rise to several sibling groups including the Nature Conservancy and regional conservation organizations. Regional groups around the Great Lakes region, especially for the southern shore of Lake Michigan, pulled together to fight for the conservation of these important biological sites. These landscapes were Cowles' first laboratories and they are conserved by a number of public lands agencies including Indiana State Parks and the National Park Service.  


Butterfly Milkweed


Prairie Phlox




Common St. Johnswort

I walked the 4.5 mile trail that formed a figure-8 through the foreshore and back dune area and thought about how Cowles' idea have survived over the last century. Like the ever-changing communities he studied even his ideas that were so popular as to start a movement in ecological science have adapted. We no longer think of climax forests as the stopping point of plant community development where "mature" forests mean the end of community change. Now we understand that mature and old growth forest continue to develop and adapt as environmental factors punctuate and shift how communities respond to pest invasions, climate change, air quality, or fire. There is no real climax stage after all, but I think Henry would be perfectly fine with this idea since he was, after all, testing our capacity to accept the concepts of change and evolution in the natural world. 

American Toad

A very steep climb! 

Dedicated to the ecological work of Henry Chandler Cowles


I've made a promise to come back. A few hours of hiking and botanizing wasn't enough to really absorb the rich biological treasure that this area contains. The place intrigues me for other reasons, too, like how residential and industrial areas threaten or compliment what is saved. How are human communities working together to protect the integrity of the Indiana Dunes? (or not) What are the biggest threats to conserving a changing landscape of wind, sand, and forest?  But for now, wandering the trails of the Cowles Bog Area, I thanked him for inventing field trips and believing that women could be a-m-a-z-i-n-g ecologists - his own important contribution to the idea that succession happens in science teaching, too. 


Dr. Cowles and his students, University of Chicago (early 1900s) NPS


To those wanting to hike this area, just know that hiking on sand or sandy trails is very different than woodland trails. Even just a few miles out-and-back on this trail involved some very steep climbing on shifting surfaces and what might take me less than an hour to cover at home in PA woods took me about three hours (with lots of stops for plant gawking and toad visits).


Note how the National Park section is book-ended by a power plant and shorefront homes.





Notes:

Henry Chandler Cowles/ National Geographic https://www.nationalgeographic.org/article/henry-chandler-cowles/

Indiana Dunes National Park  https://www.nps.gov/indu/index.htm

Indiana Dunes Plant Guide. A home owners guide to gardening and conserving dune plants in the home landscape. https://www.indunesguide.com/

Indiana Dunes State Park - A state park within a national park! https://www.in.gov/dnr/state-parks/parks-lakes/indiana-dunes-state-park/

Henry Chandler Cowles: Pioneer Ecologist. Victor Cassidy (2007)  https://www.worldcat.org/title/henry-chandler-cowles-pioneer-ecologist/oclc/77716610





Sunday, June 27, 2021

PA Greenwood Furnace State Park

Whelp. After getting really sick with a bad case of diverticulitis that lasted a few days, I gave up the prospect of continuing my two week Mid-West hiking trip and headed home. To try to salvage the second week, I booked a campsite for a few days at Greenwood Furnace State Park in the PA mountains south of State College, the home campus of PennState (We Are!)

Rothrock State Forest entrance

It was exactly what the doctor ordered. I took Amos, my long-suffering hiking buddy who I left at home during my Illinois adventure. He was mad at me for most of the two hour drive but when he saw the tent come out of the truck, his favorite camping blanket, and his travel bowls, he was all in for a few days in the park.  He's such a great camper.

Hiking around the quarry lake on this cool trail.

For three days we hiked about ten miles a day on various trails that connected to the park including a section of the Standing Stone Trail (which I want to thru-hike someday), and two trails in nearby areas of Rothrock State Forest. The campground was small but nearly half empty. We had the park and the forest to ourselves. Each day walking I felt a little better and Amos was as happy as a clam.


Hardened iron bloom remaining in the crucible.

Ruins of Furnace Stack #1

Looking up at the feedstock inlet, Furnace Stack #2 (CCC-renovation)


The park is the site of the Greenwood Furnace, one of many large iron furnaces in the area that operated to produce iron from the ore-rich banks that run the length of these mountains. Some features of the large 19th century village remain and a trail follows past the iron masters house, church, meat house, stables, blacksmith shop, and wagon yard. The quarry lake is now a beautiful place to fish or swim. We followed the lake trail all the way around and snagged a few miles on the Standing Stone Trail.


Foxglove beardtongue, Penstemon digitalis


Our second day we were a little more ambitious with an eight mile rainy day loop through the forest and later, a visit to the Alan Seeger Natural Area for a mile-long walk through old growth hemlock under cooler and sunnier skies.  This trail intersected a section of the Mid-State and Standing Stone Trail so we hopped on it for another mile or so. All around us were the remains of ancient hemlocks that had succumbed to the Wooly Adelgid infestation. Some of these old giants were five-hundred years old by the time this forest pest ended their lives. Still, there were plenty of old trees still standing despite the outbreak and an interpretive panel at the end of the hike described this old forest as "coping" and not doomed. 


Alan Seeger Natural Area - a 500 year-old giant on the right.

Rhododendron

Ancient hemlock killed off by Hemlock Wooly Adelgid

Someday I'll thru-hike this beautiful long distance trail. 


On day three of my salvage trip into the forest, Amos and I hiked the Whipple Lake Trail (3 miles) and another section of Standing Stone (5 miles) then back to the park to pack up. It was a deliciously cool morning and though we were finished with our hiking in Rothrock for now, we snuck in another 3 miles following the Turkey Hill Road ( a gravel forest road) and looping back on the Lawrence Trail.  Named for a child whose grave is found in the nearby 18th-19th century Greenwood Furnace Cemetery, we stopped in to visit his grave site and the graves of several Revolutionary and Civil War veterans. 


Whipple Lake Trail at Whipple Dam State Park



Gravesite of Daniel Grey, Revolutionary War veteran, Greenwood Furnace Cemetery 

Gravesite of Lawrence Troy, 6 mo, 1881.

Greenwood Furnace Cemetery


Whipple Dam State Park and Greenwood Furnace State Park are a dream for CCC history-buffs.  I spent a lot of time photographing some of the best CCC structures I've seen in a long time. Some of these structures are massive - like picnic pavilions or large cabins - while other structures seem to occupy less space. But are all rustic and built to last another hundred years. 


Ranger's HQ at Whipple Dam State Park. Owls Gap Camp S-60-PA, 1933-1941.

Old picnic day use area, small covered picnic shelter. Whipple Dam CCC, Owls Gap Camp.

Large group pavilion and fireplace, Greenwood Furnace Camp, S-59-PA, 1935.

Greenwood Furnace Stack #2 Reconstruction, CCC 1936.

Saturday, June 26, 2021

AT Hike #8: Camp Michaux - Tom's Run Loop


This next ten mile loop hike on the AT started within Pine Grove Furnace State Park which is inside the beautiful Michaux State Forest. Amos and I hiked a half AT/ half forest road loop that started at the parking area for Camp Michaux. I've done a post on this historic site before so won't revisit it here but we did cruise through the old CCC camp and military intelligence camp site before setting out on the AT. We met two Friends of Michaux State Forest volunteers who were busy hacking away at the substantial undergrowth. 

The AT crosses Michaux Road just west of Camp Michaux

Symbolic half-way point (the actual halfway point is south of here)

Since the AT changes a little each year, so does the half-way point. We came across the more permanent halfway marker knowing that the actual halfway for this year is about nine miles south. Due to rerouting, closures, new trail sections opening, and other modifications, the AT can vary in length from year to year by a few miles.


American Toad

This is Timber Rattlesnake country and I kept Amos on a shorter leash until we made it to the forest road, although I nearly had a heart attack when walking through some thick understory of blueberry he jumped up and screamed and tore ahead by a few feet while looking back to where I stood. "OH NO!" I said - waiting to hear the buzzy-buzz next to me. Instead the fattest American Toad I have ever seen hopped out into the sunny trail. WHEW!


Lunch lay-down among the pine needles and dead cicadas

On the trail every hiker we met stopped for a few minutes to pet Amos and chat.  Section hikers Amtrack and Iron Fly were hiking all of PA this summer. Baltimore Jack and Scooch (two old friends) were on the AT for the third time this year doing a few hundred miles of "old men stumbling." And then we met poor Cricket who was having second breakfast at Tom's Run shelter and nearly lost it to always-starving Amos. 


The new shelter and a small pavilion behind it have replaced the old CCC-built shelter.

All that remains of the CCC-built 1935 Tom's Run shelter

The springs at Tom's Run were deliciously cool and Amos spent a long time wading and lapping the water while Cricket told me about her thru-hike so far. "The trail community is amazing," she said. "I can be alone when I need or want to be or walk with people who care about each other and the trail whether day hikers or section hikers or thru-hikers, but I have really loved the trail towns. My gosh. What if all of America was like the AT community?" Well said. Maybe that is why I love it so much, too. Cricket is just out of the military and she's headed to a new job on the West Coast come October. I wished her well and we exchanged FB contacts. Meanwhile Amos was snuffling through her pack having detected turkey jerky...


Steep climb out of Tom's Run to the ridgeline

We hiked another five miles until we came to where we left off last time near the Mitchner cabin haul road and purple gate where we had lunch in the soft pine needles. Extra padding was provided by hundreds of dead cicadas. From here we jumped out on the shady forest road and walked five miles along the breezy ridge to the car. We took our time and enjoyed the ravens calling and all the small birds making feasts out of cicadas dying in the road. 


Eastern Tent Caterpillar 

Fly Poison, Amianthium muscitoxicum


Heading off the mountain to where I parked the car Amos and I finished a week of hiking in PA, unplugged and out-of-signal-range.  It helped too that for some reason Verizon throttled my data use from last week in Illinois so I could only really use the phone and even then it was spotty. I turned on the news driving home and almost immediately turned it back off. Next week is a conference in Iowa and then back to work. But the mountains are calling me louder and louder each time I leave them. One of these times I'll stay.


Forty miles in the PA mountains this week...time to go home.