Trip Log: Hadrian's Wall Path - John Clayton's Triumph: Chesters Roman Fort to Housesteads - Day 4

John Clayton as centurion, by William Bell Scott, 1857. (Wikimedia)

After a restful night at Mingary Barn in Humshaugh north of Chollerford, we continued on our trek on the Hadrian's Wall Path in anticipation entering Northumberland National Park. This was a naturalist's and historian's feast day! 

Our time at the Chesters Fort on the North Tyne River drove home the fact that so much of the Roman Period is still buried. It was named Cirurnum by the Romans and was strategically placed to guard the bridge over the river and to house a large cavalry. Not happy with a Roman fort ruins on his estate, Nathaniel Clayton, in the early 1800s, covered over this massive ruin with tons of earth so that his pastures and lawn sloped gently to the river. Nathaniel's son John (1792 - 1890), upon inheriting the estate did the opposite. He oversaw the uncovering of the fort and collected thousands of artifacts from the ruins. He built a museum next to the estate house to hold them. We dropped our packs at the museum door and were thunderstruck by what was inside. 

John Clayton is the hero of this story. His excavations at Chesters Fort led to other big digs. The next few days took us to some of his most impressive excavations at Housesteads (incredible), the Mithraic Temple (stunning), Brocolita at Gilsland (yikes!), and Vindolanda (though we didn't stop here, we drove through on the AD 122 bus).  The whole of Clayton's work in this middle stretch of the HWP, including the preservation of numerous turrets, mile castles, and great stretches of the wall and Vallum, have been lumped together as a World Heritage Site and fall mostly inside the Northumberland National Park. So admired was John Clayton that he appears as a Roman centurion supervising the building of the crags section of the wall in The Romans Cause A Wall To Be Built for the Protection of the South (1857).

Roman altars. (These make great garden ornaments.)

John Clayton, inheritor of the buried fort.

"As numerous as lost pennies."

Hipposandals for some of the 1000 horses kept at Chesters Fort.

Day 4: Chollerford to Housesteads 11 miles (Molly and I) 14 miles (George)

It was easy to get carried away by the romance of the great archeological finds. They were grand, massive, and even nostalgic. But as a military landscape, we had to remember that these were landscapes of destruction and occupation. The environmental damage caused by collecting the timber, stone, lime (for mortar), clay, peat, and gravels  - not to mention the conscription of workers and slaves gathered from the surrounding countryside - transformed social and ecological systems in ways that we can still see today. .

Artist's depiction of the stables of Chesters Fort.

Molly reads an interpretive sign and tries to imagine what this place was like.

From the bank of the North Tyne River looking up at (just) the Roman baths.

Alcoves at the Baths.

Furnace room where slaves stoked fires for under-floor heating and hot water delivery.

George with that look of "Holy moly!"

Floor supports that held flagstone for heated floors. Heated air traveled under the flagstone.

Earthworks and ruins ran so close together that they merged across fields and windy heights. The great excavation at Chesters Fort impressed on us just how extensive this system of defense had been. The stable area was so vast (and not yet completely excavated!) that I had to stand a while and let it sink in. One thousand horses. Eight hundred cavalry soldiers. A thousand people living within the fort. Thousands more living in villages that were built at the south gate to provide soldiers (who spent money) with "comfort," entertainment, food, and drink.

As far as the eye can see...

The fort and the dozens of sites that we encountered later were embedded in the native landscape of Northumbria. The track of the wall ran across a sweeping lift of earth that curled at the summit crags like ocean waves frozen in mid-air. George remarked that even in the Middle Ages, a period we think of as "long ago", people must have looked upon these ruins and earthworks as ancient even to them. Two thousand years of rot, decay, burial, scavenging, and collapse of an empire haven't done anything to reduce the spectacle of it.

A White Wagtail perches on a tumbled river bridge stone.

Jackdaw the Centurion.

Northern Lapwings tumbling and screaming.

The scale and scope of Chesters Fort was a bit overwhelming. As I wandered in and out of the acres and acres of ruins, trying to imagine what this place must have sounded like, smelled like, and looked like during the occupation, I found myself needing to take mini-breaks with some bird watching just let my brain rest on feathers and beaks and flying things. We stamped our passports and continued on our way through tiny villages, across muddy pastures, and climbed hills up and up. With every step the views became more expansive and the scope and scale of Hadrian's Wall and its wealth of associated ruins and earthworks filled every vista. John Clayton had a hand in all of them.

Stamping our hiker's passports - a bit like the Camino.

George and Molly taking in the vistas.

Through farming villages (made of wall stone!).

Following wagon ways and tractor paths and acorns, up and up.

George on the north side of the Vallum and me and cows on the south side.

Ducking out of the winds and rain for lunch in the lee of Hadrian's Wall. Brrr!

Lumps and bumps of a turret foundation beneath the turf on a shoulder of battlement.

Up and up we walked until we found a parking area with a food truck! Yay! Food truck! We sat in the lee of another bit of wall and drank hot coffee, hot chocolate, ate some sandwiches, and talked to the local historian - the food truck guy. He insisted we see the Mithras Temple down the hill just out of sight. Molly and I both groaned as we stood up - oy. But when we hobbled into the small temple ruin, I forgot about my sore legs. The landscape suddenly shifted from battle-ready to underearth. Even as the battlement rise dominated the little vale, there was an absolute feeling of sanctuary here. The winds died down and the sun shone warm. I wondered what religions and faiths occupied this land before, during, and after Roman rule. We stayed here for some time and sat in silence inside the little temple.

Mithras Temple ruins.

Molly and I wanted to rest our sore muscles so decided to call it a day. We caught the AD 122 bus for Housesteads where we explored another huge fort ruins at the peak of the crags. The wind, however, was brutal up there! High wind warnings had been posted for the day and a few hikers and been blown off their feet! We laughed as the wind pushed us around the ruins. George continued up from the Mithras Temple along the trail another three miles and met us at Housesteads a few hours later where he found us writing in our journals and bird watching. The views and the immensity of the Roman presence was again overwhelming. We all rode the AD 122 bus to that night's stay at Blekinsopp Castle. Another great place to stay, right on the shuttle line about ten miles south of HWP.

Housesteads Fort atop the Crags.

Floor pillars for the ventilated granary at Housesteads.

East gate of the huge Housesteads Fort with Crags in the distance. The was some windy post!

An easy ride to our night's accommodation out of the park on the AD 122 bus. Great shuttle service!

This day was exhausting for all of us - mentally and physically. My brain couldn't keep up with the immensity of the ruins that came almost non-stop all the way to the top of the crags. Of all the things that left an impression on me this day was the small Mithras Temple, sheltered from the wind and symbolism of empire of the wall and its forts. These temples were once buried underground for worshipers to feel the hold and cool of the earth around them. I read about the Persian-Grecco myths that surrounded this (literally) underground cult and fell asleep that night in the castle's "family" room (it could have held a small Roman legion!), wrapped in the imagery of great bull being slaughtered by Mithras. The slaughter, tended to by a raven, the sun, a serpent, and a dog ensured that "the blood spills from the bull, sinks into the ground, and from it all life on Earth emerges...."

Altar to the Sun was illuminated with an oil lamp set in an alcove inside.

Notes:

Without John Clayton, who knows what would have happened to Hadrian's Wall?
http://blog.english-heritage.org.uk/meet-man-saved-hadrians-wall/

Trip Log: Hadrian's Wall Path - Wylam to Chollerford, Days 2 & 3, May 2017

On Day 3 the Romans were everywhere!

Day 2: Wylam to East Wallinghouses, 12 miles.

Though our hike across northern England follows the route of Hadrian's Wall, we walked through landscapes that contained histories of conflict and occupation much older than the physical remains of the wall, forts, and turrets. A local historian reminded us that to the ancient tribes of the area - who had inhabited the northern territories for thousands of years before the Romans arrived - every natural landmark whether hill or outcrop, forest or single tree on the land, was significant and that we shouldn't overlook the relationship these tribes had with the land long before the Roman Period.

Leaving Wylam in the early morning. Wagon Way to Hadrian's Wall Path.

We were reminded, too, that the "Roman Period" of northern England/ southern Scotland was really a long period of military episodes rather than a continuous period of Roman rule. "People only look at the big interpretive signs as they come to them on the walk," he said, "And this is what they take-away. What people don't or can't see today are the timber frame dwellings, Iron Age hilltop forts, turf-built ramparts, dug-in-earth temples, and cult-worshiping sites that may or may not have been consumed completely by time. Some of these old places are still marked on the land. You have to train your eye to see them." 

HWP to Heddon-on-Wall. "Look beyond the big interpretive signs - train your eyes to see."

For hundreds of years the Roman occupation was in continual ebb and flow across this landscape, ground claimed by Romans for a generation or two, then retaken and reclaimed by a generation or two of Caledonians, Scoti or Picts. Scholars today debate whether the Romans actually had true control over any of the territory it attempted to claim for the Empire. 

Follow the acorns.

I began to detect the subtle knobs and vales of ancient earthworks. I realized that seeing these features was like learning to see in the dark. While other hikers passed by lumps, bumps, and humps - I stopped and studied every one. Earthworks were everywhere! Covered in sheep! Before we started seeing the impressive ruins of Day 3 we observed mile after mile of irregular land that, as our local historian at the Robin Hood Inn had told us - were defensive systems. Marching camps, the most mobile of the Roman invasion forces spread out across the frontier and wherever they stopped to probe the defenses of an enemy, they constructed square turf-built walls and ditches - essentially "digging in" - to protect their . Long before Hadrian ordered the wall built, Agricola's marching and cavalry forces had spread throughout the border country and had made deep forays into the Caledonia territories. There are relics of Roman turf defenses far to the north of where we were, even the remains of a northern defensive line at the Antonine ramparts. 

Earthworks and the military road.

By Agricola's sixth campaign into southern Scotland in 82 A.D. the Caledonians had figured out what tactics worked best against these defenses. Raids, often at night, brought horses racing towards the ramparts pulling flat-bed chariots manned by a driver, archers, and lancers who harassed and caused considerable  consternation among the Roman legions. The Roman preferred daylight battles, out in the open, highly organized, and well away from the marching camps. The Scottish tribal raiders learned the Roman vulnerabilities and applied the surprise, guerrilla attack at every opportunity. They especially appreciated the power of rumor and leaks of mis-information. Boy, some things don't change!

Contested landscape covered in canola.

The Caledonii got ready to fight with great preparation of equipment, all of which was exaggerated by rumor, as usually happens when real information is in short supply. They even launched attacks on large (marching) forts and taking the offensive, increased the feeling of panic.    - Tacticus, Agricola, 25.3

Paved road atop the Roman military road.

Another landscape feature we observed these two days was the Roman military road that in some places is built over by modern paved roadways. All Roman legionaries were highly skilled road builders and systems of roads ran every which way across England and southern Scotland. In fact, Roman soldiers were skilled in all forms of building. Building trades were an important part of military training since they were in the business of expanding empire. Wait - that sounds familiar too... 

Robin Hood Inn, Night 2 rest and amazing meals right on the Military Road. The pub manager is a local historian.

Day 3 East Wallinghouse to Chollerford, 14 miles.
 
The Auxila cohort or provincial members of the Roman military from different parts of the Empire, were highly valued (though paid far less than Romans-by-birth) for trade skills in building unique to their homelands. Auxila cohorts (300 - 400 men) were under the command of a centurion along with his full compliment of a Roman military garrison (3500 - 4000 men) and they were highly respected for their own fighting skills and weaponry. So a cohort of Syrian archers could also be utilized for their skills in metalworking. Iberian horsemen were known for their leather and tack work. Road building, however, was every soldier's business and it didn't matter from where in the Empire a cohort was from - everyone built and maintained roads. 

Camber of the military road is visible as we walk the path. Massive earthworks in the fields.

The Vallum ditch comes into view on Day 3!

We were all impressed by the size and scale of the Vallum, the great defensive ditch that runs south of the wall. It was a massive undertaking and ran almost 50 miles from Heddon-on-Wall clear through to Carlisle. It wasn't following exactly the course of the wall and was at some points quite a distance from it but always to the south. Some researchers suggest it was built to contain possible uprisings of people within the Roman territory - to slow an advance on the forts and wall from the interior. We could see how the edges of the Vallum were slightly raised as turf from the ditch was laid to create visual highpoints so that wall guards could see intrusions. It was suggested by one local historian that in times of domestic unrest, the bottom of the ditch was flooded or stockpiles of flammable liquids (oil) were at the ready to ignite, or that sharp stakes were embedded in the bottom like one giant pitfall trap. Eww.

Seven hundred year old tree astride wall stone.

It seemed everywhere we looked there mounds and ditches, earthworks with the Vallum not too far away, and it was on the third day in a rainy, windy squall we came to our first massive section of Hadrian's Wall! The massive square-cut stone was laid as two exterior walls with rubble, mortar, and gravel filling in the interior. Originally the wall was built to stand 12 to 18 feet high and guards patrolled the top but we never saw it at its full size, as entire sections had been badly scavenged for the cut stone. It wasn't hard to see where it went over the centuries - Roman stone could be seen in barns and farmhouses all along the Military Road, so it didn't get carted too far off!

Hill fort ramparts.

Hadrian's Wall at last!

St. Oswald's Farm barn and farmhouse both contained square-cut wall stone.

Our third day on the path was rainy and cold, typical of May in northern England, but at every turn (or over every stile) there was something new to see. These Romans were really serious about this wall! Hadrian visited this region on his years-long inspection of the Empire's boundaries and realized the constant attacks and badgering (we saw a badger, too!) by the Scot tribes had worn his troops down. The wall, he said, would help secure the northern line and provide a system of resupply roads and forts that would strengthen their positions against the "northern barbarians." The wall was built in six years and completed in A.D. 122.

The Vallum to the south of the wall. A constant companion for the next five days.

Following the military road.

During some short periods of rain I walked along shrouded in my rain jacket and hood unable to see or hear George and Molly ahead of me. All I could see was the Vallum to my left, old hedges to my right, the path underneath me, and pasture walls. I almost ran right into the next stile! From the top of the stile I stood in the mist and looked back over the fields we had just crossed. The grey skies were the perfect compliment to the pastures which seemed to absolutely glow vibrant green against heavy clouds. I stood there a long while and looked at the land. Undulating ground - the ditch, earthworks, walls, old road edges - were all draped in earth colors so rich and lush I had to catch my breath. The tops of stiles became my favorite vantage points from then on to look back and look ahead and take in the lay of the land.

Ladder stile look-out point.

There is an art to climbing ladder stiles. Especially with hiking poles and a backpack. I tried various ways to go over - climb forward, turn around at the top (enjoy the view), climb backward down to the ground, or sidestep up, straddle the top, sidestep down, or climb forward, step down facing the direction we're going (the fastest but slippery!).  Sheep and cows always watch the people going up and over. Maybe its entertainment for them, certainly when someone trips and tumbles - I can hear the sheep giggling even now as I recall a slip off a stile doing the forward down maneuver.  They really did giggle and the little ones wagged their tails.

Brunton Turret ruins near Chollerford with stair ramp up to the wall walk.

As we approached Chollerford for our third night's stay at Mingary Barn, we stopped to explore the Brunton Turret ruins. Inside was a hearth for cooking and the exterior wall contained a stairway for troops to access the top of the wall. Across the river was the beautifully excavated Chesters Fort. This deserves a blog post of its own, so I won't include it here other than to say that we stopped at the fort before heading up the hill to our B&B (which was fanstastic!) and dinner at a local pub. The fort visit was incredible, to say the least.

Night 3 at Mingary Barn - what a treat!

Dining with HWP hikers from Glasgow and Edinburgh.  Wonderful meal!

Notes: 

The English Heritage Society maintains a wealth of archeological and historic sites along the Hadrian's Wall Path, all of which contain excellent museums and offers the HWP hiker discounted admission with a nine day visitor's pass. It was well worth the $ to purchase this pass and we enjoyed every EHS stop along the way.  http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/hadrians-wall

Night 2 - Robin Hood Inn is where we met a local historian who also happened to be the owner of this old but beautiful inn and public house. We had the most delicious meals here and a huge English breakfast included with our stay.   http://robinhoodinnhadrianswall.com/


Night 3 - Mingary Barn/ Chollerford B&B was a treat for all of us - we were a little cold, really tired (12 mile day in the rain) and so hungry. This old farm complex is now run as a guest house and B&B and the owners were so kind.  http://www.chollerfordbedandbreakfast.co.uk/

Trip Log: Hadrian's Wall Path May 2017 - Newcastle to Wylam

Dune restoration at South Shields on the North Sea.

This year's long distance hiking challenge was Hadrian's Wall Path in northern England. My son George and cousin Molly accompanied me on this trek of 110 miles from the North Sea to the Irish Sea with the theme of "Walls: What Are They Good For?" (sung to the tune War - What Is It Good For?) playing against the current political climate here in the States. Seems like some elements of admin feel its important to build a wall from the Gulf of Mexico to the Pacific to keep those south-of-the-border out. It's not a very popular idea, however, and it serves, at least rhetorically, as a monument to racism, isolationism, and nationalism for most of us here. But with walls as our theme, we set of on May 12 to look at why walls were/are built and how their purposes have changed over time. So off we went, long distance pilgrims on another quest!

Rough seas outside the sea walls.

Hadrian was Roman Emperor from 117-138 A.D. and a well-traveled emperor at that. He visited every corner of the Roman Empire during his reign. Northern England, the farthest reach of Roman rule, however, concerned him quite a bit. He was a military man through and through and understood the importance of highly trained legions and well-defended borders to the security of the Empire and he observed that constant conflicts with the northern tribes, mainly the Picts,  weakened and demoralized his positions throughout the island occupation.

First Day: Wallsend visit at Segedunum then Newcastle to Wylam.

The Empire was experiencing border troubles in a number of areas in Syria, along the Danube, and in the Eastern Mediterranean, and Hadrian, best remembered now for the physical wall that bears his name, spent much of his touring time fortifying or withdrawing from areas of constant conflict while working to improve infrastructure in the Empire's interior.  To secure the troublesome border with southern Scotland he ordered a high wall be built to shut out the "northern barbarians" and control crossings for trade and safe supply lines for troops and forts. Every ten miles or so, large enclosed forts were built to hold cavalry and infantry. At regular intervals there were turrets and mile castles. Key archeological sites along the trail reveal foundations and ruins of these structures. The path today roughly follows the course of the Roman wall and is a designated National Trail.

We start!

George and I visited the mouth of the Tyne River at South Shields on the North Sea the day before we struck out on Hadrian's Wall Path with Molly. Here we watched a stormy sea crash against broad and newly restored dune areas. A Roman garrison fort Arbeia was built here in 160 A.D. to house archers and spearmen. Later, during the days of frequent Viking invasions, this river offered prime access to the resource-rich interior region the Northumberland hill country 70 miles inland, provided ships could safely enter the treacherous mouth of the river where the shape of the coast seems to focus a fury of rough seas at the estuary port.  By the 9th century the Vikings had conquered the headlands at South Shields, and soon thereafter all the kingdoms of Anglia Northumbria fell to their control. Take note,  I wrote in my journal - this explains my 18% Scandinavian DNA. I noted, too, that a "good wall" was the double sea wall at Tynemouth that protects the river's harbors from the fury of the sea. 

Hadrian Wall remnant in Wallsend.

Next day we arrived by Metro to the museum and fort site at Wallsend, a shipbuilding town of some reputation although the famous Swan Shipworks is no longer there. We viewed the partial excavations from the museum tower and explored the exhibit halls. A tiny bit of restored wall emerged from the bank of the fort mound. It was a great way to orient ourselves to the time period, the building style of the wall, and the architecture of the forts, turrets, and mile castles all built on smilar patterns from one end of the structure to the other. 

Partial fort excavations at Wallsend with the remains of The Swan Ship.

Model of Segedunum Fort at Wallsend.

We skipped ahead by Metro to start at the Millennial Bridge at Newcastle to save several miles of hard surface walking. We found the acorn logo of the National Trail System on a sign nearby and dodged some fierce winds and squalls on our walk along a revitalized city waterfront. With twelve miles of hiking our first day, walking into headwinds at the start was the most difficult!

Millennial Bridge start in Newcastle.

High winds and bursts of rain slowed our pace up the Tyne River path.

Shipyards and naval arms factories on the Tyne, c. 1920.

Revitalized waterfront is beautiful and traffic free.

The path follows streets and a few wooded venues leaving Newcastle and we took our first rest at the monument at Scotswood Montague Pit Disaster Memorial. Mining has been a centuries-old industry in Newcastle and tales of colliery and pit mine accidents were plentiful.  This monument, however, memorializes the 1925 disaster with a hopeful look forward. Modern children hold their cell phones up for a picture with a pitman, while sitting playfully astride a pit pony. The pit pony has a smile! I thought - now that's interesting! I did a little research on the smiling pony when I crashed into my bed that night and discovered that pit ponies saved many lives by leading men and boys from the flooding pit into the daylight.

Scotswold Mine Accident Monument with smiling pit pony.

The smell of methane, the snuffing out of coal oil lamps as oxygen was sucked away, and the sudden gushes of water through the pit mine wall signaled to the ponies it was time to go. Just as the walls began their horrific cracking and buckling and flood waters filled the pit, miners were running for their lives up the dark passages behind the galloping ponies who knew to run to the tunnel end, towards the light. "Hundreds of children, grandchildren, and great grandchildren are here today because of the brave pit ponies," said one descendant in 2012. Still, 38 men and boys were lost in the disaster as the broken walls allowed the river to spill in, trapping and drowning those in the deepest parts of the mine. Broken walls. Broken lives. 

1925 funeral for those killed in the Scotswold-Montague Pit Mine disaster. This site is now a nature park through which the Hadrians Wall Way passes just west of the memorial. Photo courtesy of Sixtownships & Coal Mining Memories.

A nature park is where the Matague Colliery once stood.

The site of the Scotswold-Montague Colliery has been reclaimed for a park at Denton Dene. The plant and its pits closed for good in 1959. The miners village is still here sporting trendy homes in a neat historic area. It was a friendly and well kept park and people were walking their dogs and playing football as we walked through. All nature now. The old tailing pond is a refuge for amphibians and aquatic plants.It was hard to imagine such a dense and dirty industrial mine site ever having been there.

Denton Dene park path along a defunct rail line that served the colliery.

English Oaks on the way to Wylam.

Our walk continued across the pedestrian bridge high over the A1 then back into pleasant parks and green space. Our first encounter with English oaks happened in a small but busy little park along the Tyne. The river banks were no longer reclaimed industrial property, covered instead with lush forest and wildflowers blooming as far as the eye could see. Grey herons flew upriver. English Robins alighted in the path. The paved paths turned gravel then dirt as it followed the river bank. We were almost on the Wagon Way, a former wagon road and rail path turned bike trail to connect Hadrian's Wall Path with the small river town of Wylam. We met several birders, bikers, and dog walkers who assured us the town was just ahead.

On the river path coming up to the Wagon Way (looking back)

On the Wagon Way to Wylam!

Another hour and we found the small town of Wylam and uphill (of course, uphill) was the Ship Inn! Our first night's stay above a rowdy pub was an adventure in pub songs, the Geordie accent, and laughter but we were pretty tired so it didn't bother us for long. The pub owner was a delight to talk to and he took care of our every need. He invited us to stay longer downstairs for another round of beer and hard cider. We looked at each other with sleepy smiles and thanked him for his kind offer and headed upstairs to our rooms for hot showers and an early turn-in.

First night's stay in Wylam at The Ship Inn. Delightful!

Notes:

Sixtownships and Mining Memories is a treasure trove of local historical resources for the mining historian interested in The Great Northern Coal Fields. Most of the links at www.sixtownships.org.uk seem to work but there are some breaks and dead ends. The Scotswold-Montague funeral picture can be found here - http://www.sixtownships.org.uk/montagu-pit-disaster.html

Segedunum Roman Fort Museum in Wallsend (east of the city) was well worth the visit, but we did skip the six miles of industrial path walking to start in Newcastle proper. https://segedunumromanfort.org.uk/