This five + mile hike was done over two days while I was visiting a family member who is in a physical rehab center nearby. Knowing that I must at all costs get in at least 3 miles a day, I snuck off during his PT time to walk the very muddy trails at Soldier's Delight Natural Environmental Area. Afterwards I snuck back in to to see how his PT went and to say goodbye and head home. The second day I was so muddy the reception desk lady almost made me shed my boots before going up to see Poppy but when I showed her how muddy my socks were she said "Oh, never mind!"
First day hike on the Serpentine Trail - wet, rainy, muddy.
The protected area encompasses several hundred acres and contains over 30 rare, threatened, and endangered plants. This is a little depressing considering that barrens ecosystems once occupied over 300,000 acres in Maryland and Pennsylvania. There's been a decades-long battle with developers and zoning to get as much of this eastern prairie conserved. Still - the developments are closing in.
Big 'ole hunk of serpentine, several hundred pounds of dense, heavy chromite ore.
Like the Nottingham Serpentine Barrens close to where I live in PA, the thin, nutrient-poor soils make living here tough unless you are a pitch pine, post oak, or a native grass like Big Bluestem. Being the middle of winter, however, not much was green or growing except the rugged little pines and blankets of moss and reindeer lichen (Cladonia), but without the tall cover of grasses it was easy to see surface mines, pit mines, and serpentine formations. From the mid-1800s valuable chromite was processed out of the serpentine and sent to the steel mills of Baltimore. At one time the mines of northwestern Baltimore County served as the world leaders in chromium production.
Thin soils barely cover outcrops of serpentine.
The trails were flooded by two days of steady rains. I gave up trying to avoid the pools and mud pits and just hiked right on through. The downhill trails flowed with water. At the bottom of the hills, the trails were indistinguishable from several busy little streams. Though not the right season to see them, many rare wildflowers have been found in these bottom wetlands where serpentine sands and clay wash off the hills and fill the streambeds with silt and fresh fragments of rock. It's a raw environment where water sheets off the exposed slopes.
Bottom-land stream
Human management of the land dates back to Native American hunting cultures when fires were set regularly to discourage the pitch pine and oak intrusions, keeping grasslands open and attractive to large herbivores. The burning continues under the direction of the state ecosystem restoration team but the only large herbivore left in this area, however, is the ubiquitous White-Tailed Deer, now forced onto shrinking ranges due to extensive housing developments that are closing in on the barrens. The State has opened up a bow hunting season here to cull the herds that threaten to eat the rare plant communities. I wore my hunter's orange cap today as bow season ends at the end of January.
White-tailed Deer tracks.
Choate Mine, last used 1917-1918.
Chromite from the Choate Mine was used to produce paint pigments and I fondly remember my oil painting classes at Maryland Institute College of Art when instructors warned us "Don't lick your brushes!" But the chromium colors were spectacular on canvas and I can't tell you how many tubes I bought for classes from the college's art supply store. Chromium reds, yellows, blues ...
Surface pit.
Cladonia macrophyllodes, Large-leafed Cladonia, showing off its little cups.
Minus all the green, growing things, my attention was turned to low-growing mosses and lichens. I really miss not using my macro lens and camera set up today. I guess one of my New Year's resolutions will have to be to get the old Canon cleaned and repaired and back in working order. The tiny cups of the Large-leafed Cladonia lichen made such a great show among the arched, withered grasses and I wished could have gotten some close-in shots.
Bracket fungi.
In some areas, the reindeer moss was so thick and wide it reminded me of the "grey meadows" of Prince Edward Island National Park. In other places I had to use my hiking poles to push apart the thick patches of Greenbrier in order to see the dark mossy ground below. Though DNR has done a great job ridding some of the natural area of this scourge with burning, Greenbriar overtakes much of the wooded landscape to the point it is impassable, closing in even on the trails.
Cladonia portentosa, Reindeer Moss, in a small "grey meadow"
After hiking through water-filled gullies that looked more like streams than trails, I finally did reach Red Run, a sweet little stream that meanders through a bottom valley. The woods are thick with White and Red Oak and the Sassafras actually has height and girth as compared to the "stick-Sass" on the serpentine bluffs. I watched as small minnows darted out from under ledges and congregated in pools below ribbed-rock riffles. Finally, the sun came out full force and the deep blue sky reflected in the stream.
Red Run
One of the greatest influences on my young naturalists life was Miss Jean Worthley who produced a public television show for kids called Hodge Podge Lodge. She grew up in this area and was fascinated in her youth by the prairie ecosystems of the barrens. Miss Jean was one of the leading advocates for the preservation of Soldiers Delight. I sang a little "thank you" song on my way up to the last great view across the Bluestem barrens prairie for having such a cool (though wet) place to explore.
The sun finally comes out!
Serpentine Trail (2.5 mi) and Choate Mine Loop (3.2 mi)
It's been a long week, so I took a long walk. Late in the day on Saturday I made a four mile loop around Nottingham Serpentine Barrens County Park in Chester County, PA - about forty minutes from where I live. I love serpentine barrens and I've done a post or two about them. There are many conservations lands within a short drive of here that protect them. Soldier's Delight, Goat Hill, and many others. They are rare habitats that contain only those plants that can tolerate heavy metal soils - toxic to most plants in the Mid-Atlantic.
One of many views over the serpentine hills at Nottingham.
Like many serpentine areas, this place too was once heavily mined for chromite for the making of munitions during WWI. It was a busy place and the landscape was heavily scarred and altered. There are the remains of a reduction site near one of the big quarry lakes for history buffs, and plenty of placer mines, quarry pits, and old roads that date to the war years 1914-1919.
Quarry lake - very very deep and fenced off.
The main section of the park is beautifully laid out with scenic places to picnic, several small pavilions for parties and reunions, playgrounds, a really nice small lake, and a pretty little pollinator garden. This park has always been a jewel in the Chester County parks system. It's worth a whole day to really explore. But today I did three hours before sunset and just enjoyed the natural company of the insects, birds, deer, and even a few red bats.
Box elder flowers aflame over little Victory Run that cuts through the park.
The deciduous trees are all well on their way to having leaves and are in one stage or another of budburst, flower, and new leafy growth. Black cherry trees already have their burstings of Eastern Tent caterpillar and I stopped to watch them wriggle and congregate outside their silky shelters.
Eastern Tent Caterpillar on black cherry.
The predominate trees at Nottingham Barrens are the pitch pines that grow across vast open plains of serpentine soils. In most places the metallic rock is just at the surface and soils are only a few inches deep where soils exist.
A hunk of weathered serpentine broken open to see the raw chromite inside.
A tiny marsh of reed in a wet hollow.
A wind twisted pitch pine above a barrens prairie.
Sap was running from this sapsucker's recent work.
A whitetail deer (doe) on Doe Trail. Go figure.
There are many trails to explore and I suggest picking up one of the full color maps at the office or at a stocked kiosk. I did a four mile loop on Doe, Buck, and Feldspar Trails, then walked the gravel roads from end to end in the developed section. Because I came late there were only a few dog walkers and a few botanists. They pointed out some of the trailside flowers like this moss phlox which was blooming in profusion.
Moss Phlox.
I'll stop back in a month or so to see the progression of the prairie grasses and composite flowers. But for now the hills are still brown and open. All we need is a herd of buffalo and we're good to go. But there is a little research going on...
As the sun set behind the hills of pitch pine I came across this Morning Cloak butterfly chillin' on a knotty dead pine limb. These butterflies are only observed in early spring so it was nice to have such a good long look at it before heading out. I'll be back in a few weeks and capture the green-up in a very difficult place to live and grow!
Notes
Websites for the park and its conservation partners -
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