Monday, April 14, 2025

PA York Heritage Rail Trail: Segment 11 - The Last Out-and-Back

Segment # 11:  Railroad, PA, to the Mason Dixon Line and back, 6 miles. 

It stayed blissfully (for Amos) cloudy and cool with some spotty sun for 5/6ths of this 6 mile out-and-back until the last mile returning when the sun shone full bore. Amos does not like heat and his shiny black coat was soon soaking up the glorious sun and forcing him to walk way off to the side in as much dappled shade as the early spring forest canopy would offer him. But he did it! We finished our 2025 Walk with Spring back at the truck, parked in the rail trail parking lot in Railroad.  Fifty miles (25 miles x two) of out-and-back hikes from John Rudy County Park 25 miles south to the Mason Dixon Line, and this 8 year-old hound was right proud of himself. 


Good job, ole' boy.

The Mason Dixon Line is the boundary between Pennsylvania and Maryland, the demarcation between northern states and southern states, a political border that was vitally important during the American Civil War (1860-1864) - which it feels on some days that we are still fighting. Even so, the MDL marks the boundary for Freedom Seekers  who came in their thousands from Maryland to Pennsylvania, hoping to establish themselves as free people in the Northern States or Canada. It always sends a little shiver to stand on this line and imagine the feeling of crossing into freedom here. 


New Freedom Station

The New Freedom Rail Station, unlike older stations below the MDL, was not built to have segregated waiting areas or ticket counters, a practice that stayed in vogue until the 1960s.  Arriving at New Freedom Station, there were no more car inspections to separate black and white riders or exclude riders from dining. But the town was named not for its MDL heritage, instead, in was named for its founder and family, French Huguenot Conrad W. Free of the of the De Ferree family who fled France and religious persecution in the 18th century. 

South Branch, Codorus Creek


We continued to walk next to the South Branch of the Codorus Creek which flows north to the Susquehanna River. It's been next to us almost the whole way south, but now it is a yard or two wide and just a little stream. Its headwaters gather just over the Maryland Line in a long valley of wetland seeps and springs.
 

Making a new friend


On our walk down from the town of Railroad, PA, to the Mason Dixon Line we met two guys sitting on a park bench along the trail at a little scrap metal sculpture garden. Amos wanted to go visit so I asked if he could come over. One of the men suddenly teared up and opened his arms to Amos. "I'm without a dog for the first time in my life," he cried. The other man smiled and nodded as Amos curled himself around his new friend. "Where did you find such a beautiful hound?" he asked. I told him about the American Black and Tan Coonhound Rescue  and said how sorry I was. "I'm gonna check this out," he said, as Amos offered his ample rump to both men for a scratchy scratch. 


Wild mustard on the old rails


Our last outcrop - wavy!


Spring is here in all its glory, even though northern parts of Pennsylvania are still getting snowy days, the south-central region is in full bloom and bud burst. Even so, spring has been a bit of a tease in these parts with some stretches of cold, wet weather and persistent cooler temps. Everything smells wonderful. Amos loved the smells coming from the Hound Dog Bakery!


Amos got a nice sample biscuit here - yummy!


Ma & Pa Engine 84


South of New Freedom, a mile or so before reaching the Mason Dixon Line is a cool forest where we sat for snack ( a peanut butter bone from Hound Dog Bakery) and water. Not too many people on the trail today because it was Monday morning but a few daily walkers were out and stopped to chat about the trail, the weather, and to say hello to Amos. It was nice to see the canopy developing overhead. Soon this stretch will be shady under summer sun. 


Railroad cut through forest


Mile 0! 

At Mile 0 we snapped a picture of a smiling hound and posed by the Mason Dixon Line Kiosk for an official "on the line" celebration. Another snack and another long sip of water before heading back through New Freedom and Railroad and planning for our next hike. Thanks for coming with us in this Walk with Spring 2025 post series!


Amos' nose is in Maryland! 




Notes:


Hound Dog Bakery https://hounddogbakery.com/



Tuesday, April 1, 2025

PA York Heritage Rail Trail Segments 9 & 10

 Segment 9 (3/29) Centerville to Pleasant Valley Road Bridge O&B (4.5 mi) - Glen Rock, PA


RR Bridge over South Branch Codorus Creek 


Things are really heating up now! With temperatures in the 70s for both segments of this pair of walks and with the promise of warm rains causing American Toads, Spring Peepers, and Wood Frogs to erupt in near constant calling, spring is definitely here to stay. Starting at the Centerville Parking Lot just north of the charming railroad town of Glen Rock, PA, however I realized too late that hiking on this glorious Saturday meant crowds and I soon found myself boxed into my parking space even before we set out. People were trying to make parking spaces out of any available (or unavailable) opening as the main lot was filled. A Jeep pulling a trailer for two big and heavy e-bikes pulled longways behind me and a small pickup truck edged into a narrow space between my truck and the information kiosk. Well, I thought, I'll see what happens when I get back...


Upper trail crossing in Glen Rock


Lower trail crossing


As we walked into Glen Rock the bike traffic increased and I had to keep Amos strictly to the side though he really wanted to walk in the middle of the trail. The south branch of Codorus Creek kept inside its stone wall raceway through town and it seemed every old building on the street nearest the creek had once been a mill or had a raceway of some sort attached to it. The hills surrounding the town were almost pink with the swollen buds of Red Maple and Red Oak. In the distance a train horn wailed and Amos began to get excited. He loves to bay at the trains. 


Leaving Glen Rock


Krebb's Store


Outcrops!


South of Glen Rock, past Krebb's Store, the outcrop action began to get interesting. I love studying our local geology and here was no exception. Mosses are turning bright green again and colonies of Lichen are ramping up their growth cycle, spreading out into new territory of raw rock at the rocket-fast speed of a single centimeter per year. The train horn was getting closer and Amos was dancing around while I studied a big boulder of metabasalt, once a blob of volcanic ooze that had pushed its way into a crevice in stretching bedrock. It now stands proud by itself everything around it having weathered away



Metabasalt exposure


A quiet little GE 80-ton diesel engine pulling a few excursion cars made its way by prompting Amos to sing and shout and holler. It was so quiet (except for the thrum of wheels on rail) that I was surprised to see it sweep into view. The engineer waved at Amos and sounded the horn which Amos loved and it made him sing all the louder - he actually tuned in to the pitch of the horn. An impressive duet!


GE 80 ton locomotive 


Quartzite summit of Glen Rock

Poor Amos, though, is not a fan of heat and soon after the train encounter I decided to turn around and head back, making our walk about 4 miles out-and-back. We dodged bikes and runners as he ambled slowly along making his way north again. I promised not to take him out in the midday heat for the rest of the year and to chose weekdays over weekends for the more popular trails that tend to get crowded. Since we were going a lot slower I was able to spot Bloodroot growing in some of the most inhospitable places along the railroad - places where coal dust and open gravel made growing conditions harsh, especially in heat. The more I looked the more I found, the tough little Bloodroot popped up everywhere other plants didn't stand a chance.


Bloodroot on a coal & gravel bank

Tough! 

Glen Rock Carolers 


Amos finished off one bottle of water and started a second bottle in the shade of the Glen Rock Carolers statue, a dedication to the Christmas tradition of door-to-door holiday singing kept here since the mid-1800s. Soon we were on our last stretch back to the parking lot north of town. The beautiful Codorus Creek flowed next to the trail and Amos wanted badly to go down into it. Back at the Centerville Lot I was still boxed in, so we waited in air conditioning until the riders returned to move their cars, though I needed help getting my truck out of a tight squeeze with that Jeep and trailer. 


South Codorus Creek 



Segment 10 (3/31) : Pleasant Valley RR Bridge to Railroad Out-and-Back (3.5 mi) 


A Monday morning section hike of only 3.5 miles up and back from our turn around point on Saturday proved to be more to the old coonhound's liking, but he still enjoyed a few lay-downs after his water breaks despite the shorter distance. I think this is his way of telling me he's had it with the rail trail's flat, gravely base and warm plodding. Back to the mountain trails soon, buddy.



Very few people out this fine morning so we could safely zig-zag from one side of the trail to the other for Amos to sniff all the smells and for me to spot all the signs of spring. There is one very long outcrop in this stretch which I could have spent another hour exploring for all the different kinds of mosses, fern, liverwort, lichen. But tracking a Groundhog was of utmost importance.

Skunk Cabbage 

Bloodroot

Spicebush


Of course these long outcrop road cuts represent the underpaid labor of Irish immigrants in the 1830s who with star-bit drills and sledge hammers, hand dug and cleared the path of this railway from Baltimore to York. Now, a recreational path and excursion line, it is sometimes easy to forget or not to know at all how this route was built and to whom the real credit goes for its construction. I was happy to find a fairly new interpretive panel honoring those immigrant workers at the end of the long outcrop cut. I was also pleased to read on that same panel the encouragement to look carefully at the outcrop how nature re-inhabits these rugged places. Outcrops are diverse habitats that support some of the first life forms to colonize an exposed area and as these colonies of mosses and lichens mature, they literally "lay the ground" on which other plants and animals can then occupy. I counted dozens of Miner Bees, a patch of Saxifrage, gardens of emergent ferns, and cascades of Mountain Laurel. 

Moss gardens

Apple Moss, Bartramia pomiformis


One more section and we'll be finished with our 2025 Walk with Spring on the York Heritage Rail Trail. I'll have to time it just right so Amos doesn't feel the heat or the crowds, but today was the perfect meandering hike for him. Soon on to the Mason Dixon Line for the finish! 


Long road cut outcrop


Notes:

Since we did this trail as a series of out-and-backs, we actually double the mileage of the trail one-way. 
AllTrails completing time is figured for biking, below.