This rather short day on The English Way allowed us some extra time to explore and rest at The Hospital of St. Cross which is directly on the path. It was a remarkable visit and our time there was a real gift. Thank you to the Brothers and Father Dominic for spending time with us.
Approaching St. Cross on the Camino Ingles
Our walk out of Winchester was made with the promise to come back the after we finished our Camino to spend a day in the cathedral. But there was so much more about this big medieval town built on the River Itchen that deserved more than a day to explore. Keeping in view St Catherine's Hill across the river on this damp morning we followed the path around a big bend through luxurious water meadows straight into the garden wall of St. Cross. So in we went, not suspecting it would be a few hours before we emerged.
St. Catherine's Hill, hilltop fort and medieval site
We found the gates swung open to receive visitors as Sunday morning mass had just concluded for the parish of St. Faith that has gathered here for over 500 years. This great almshouse, church, and community of hospitality was built under the care of Bishop of Winchester Bishop Henry of Blois, whose mother was the youngest daughter, Adela, of William the Conqueror. In the 1130s the walls began to rise for the church with its surrounding cloister walk and almshouse. Henry dedicated his charitable institution to St. Cross and it served the practical purpose of helping men and women in financial or physical difficulty. "For the hospital of Christ's poor," wrote Henry, "newly founded outside the city walls of Winchester, for the good of the soul."
Pilgrims blessing at the One-Hundred Menne Hall
At risk of sounding a little "woo-woo" I'd like to say that there were several layers of spirit hovering around us as we explored the grounds and the church, not as in 'spirits' but in-the-spirit of a profound sense of love and care. It was almost overwhelming. Like a giant hug. It permeated the stones of the church and as a fan of stone masonry and its technical history I could as easily feel the care of each stone having been cut, dressed, set into place. Way back when I thought I wanted to be a traditional stone mason and worked a summer with an area mason, I learned to see stone in ways that indicated not just the craftsmanship, but with a feel for the care of work. The whole place seemed to shimmer with this kind of care.
Cloister and Church of St. Cross
Masters Hall and Brothers Quarters
I am, admittedly, a church-crawler which in the States is kind of an odd thing to do with your free time, but here in the UK I felt like my little hobby is better appreciated. There are a number of excellent blogs I follow to learn more about ancient churches in the UK and some of what I learn I can place into context here in the States, from the traditions of stone masons to the importance of the craftspeople and their role in maintaining a church as a living space. Paul Timlett's recent post on church-crawling made me grin ear-to-ear as I tried to find ways to describe my experience in the Church of St. Cross. Old churches are best though of as living spaces where even in their disuse, there are vibrant living stories to be told. In their best dress, they are full of color and plays of light. In their forgotten places, they just need our patient love to be reimagined.
"Here, let's do this..."
Lying back in a pew to stare
In many older churches, especially before the Reformation, vibrant wall paintings would have covered their interiors. Architectural details would have been painted in lively decoration. We certainly had seen hints of this in our church visits on the way thus far. But as I looked into every nook and cranny of the St Cross Church, my attention was drawn to all the ways people over the centuries have left their marks - in stone, light, tile, tapestry, and wood. The vaulted ceilings with their arches and columns seemed to still reverberate with the morning's mass music if not the sounds of the human voice raised in song for hundreds of years. As I touched lightly the brilliantly beautiful handmade clay tiles, I heard a brother coming up behind me to turn on the lights. "Here," he said, "Let's do this....." and wowwww. Truly, I felt the church itself was alive - almost (woo-woo alert) humming with people over the centuries at their work of decorating and caring for it and each other. Well, the brother who switched on the lights was also humming.
A worn threshold
As transient pilgrims we often don't get to stay long enough to see the life of a church unfold but on this walk we have in some small ways witnessed church communities, whether religious or social within ancient walls to live very modern lives. Since we began our journey in Caversham and Reading, some sixty miles ago, and because we've perfected the art of lingering, we'd been invited to share in a final goodbye, to join lunch with a new parishioner meeting that was underway (we were privy to some heartfelt concerns about faith), to attend a Sunday mass, and now to hear about the thriving community of St Faith at St Cross. Mathew the humming brother was excited to welcome his first pilgrims from the States. He lingered with us and explained how the tradition of caring for the area's poor is not just a centuries' old mission of their predecessors but an active calling today. Brother Mathew was one of twenty-five brothers living at St Cross who, along with the farmer and his family, and the porter and his family, make up this beautiful community of care.
On the Camino de Santiago!
Enjoying being on the dole!
At the Porter's House we were offered the pilgrims dole, a few slices of bread and two cups of hard cider made on the grounds. Brother Mathew explained the difference between the red-robed and black-robed brothers and how they participate in the spiritual life of the community of St Faith. They attend all the weddings, all the baptisms (there are a lot!), all the funerals. They share a fine choir. They, along with the parish of St Faith help host a number of annual events like the hugely popular Spring Fete and annual Knight's Festival, with jousting of course! The Hundred Men Hall is still an active kitchens and serves hearty midday meals daily. People were strolling the gardens, sitting to sketch, share conversations. Elder unmarried brothers gathered at the Porters Lodge to give their congratulations to the married brother farmer on the birth of his new baby boy that morning in Winchester. Molly received her scallop shell with the Cross of St James. Everything was celebration. Everything was love.
Leaving St Cross
For hours we immersed ourselves in the community of St Cross and St Faith. I wished we could have stayed longer but with light starting to fade and a few miles left to go to Eastleigh for the night, we met with Father Dominic who wished us Buen Camino at the gate and gave us a pilgrims blessing. With Brother Mathew in his long black robe waving goodbye from the Porter's gate inside, we continued back down the path that linked us to the Camino Ingles and the way south. Past gentle cattle, still part of the milking tradition at St Cross under the care of the brother farmer and land manager, Mike. We were embraced in thriving chalk stream landscape, one of the rarest habitats found on Earth (and most of that in South England). Walking away I felt immense gratitude for our visit.
Molly, Father Dominic, and me
Milk cows have a special place in the story of St Cross
Notes:
John Crook (2011) The Hospital of St Cross and the Almshouse of Noble Poverty. http://www.john-crook.com/
Day 5 did not disappoint but it dawned rainy again and came with a compliment of showers and imposing storm clouds that thundered in the distance pretty much the whole time we walked. It also came with our first experience of the River Itchen and the flooded trails that we had been warned about before we started out in Reading and by river path walkers this day. We actually rerouted around the river as hikers, wet up to the top of their Wellingtons, kindly suggested we turn back. We made it to Winchester, however late it was, and spent the evening hours enjoying a rain-free walk around this beautiful Medieval town.
Another wet start
Alresford did not want to let us leave as we found an interesting churchyard, an historic railroad, and met chatty neighbors out early the shops for fresh fish and produce. It was early in the misty rain but even so the town was bustling. The Camino Ingles joined the Pilgrims Way (Winchester to Canterbury), the Itchen Way, and St. Swithun's Way through the morning which gave the path a bustling feel as well. By this point in our walk I had lost all track of what day it was so I am guessing it was market day or a weekend? Anyway, it was very people-y.
The Pilgrims Way joins the Camino Ingles
Alresford Station - The Watercress Line - and conductor Sue
Watercress cultivation, water meadows, River Itchen
When we left the town and began to follow the River Itchen, along its banks and through its ancient water meadows, our pilgrimage truly took on its riverine/watery theme as we navigated stream fordings, flooded paths, and pop-up storms. Now I really got sucked into my newfound love for chalk streams. Trout were everywhere on their clear water gravel beds. Watercress and submerged aquatic grasses swayed with the strong current. Sometimes we swayed, too, as we balanced on narrow paths with water rising inches from our feet on either side. One slip or stumble and one of us could have easily ended up in the river. I became preoccupied with my cousin's safety and began to catastrophize with any number of doom and gloom scenarios in my head!
One of several crossings today
A beautiful chalk stream, River Itchen
In any case, we did not go for a swim today but the river and the water meadows did their magic on me helping to wash away my distracting thoughts and reminding me how sacred the watery landscape would have been to our ancestors. Rivers were integral to pre-Christian Celtic worship and when overlapped with Christian belief and traditions, streams of all sizes, springs, fens, and marshes became holy places, givers of life, worthy of deep reverence. St. Swithun figured highly today - he's one of Molly's favorite saints - and while we were walking in the same landscapes that he once lived in, keeping him in mind today made our spiritual connections to this beautiful river even more powerful. River Itchen had me under its spell.
Narrow, flooded path
We had to backtrack off the river at one exceptionally flooded section thanks to the warnings of a few walkers and one gentleman in particular who loved the idea of pilgrims walking through his favorite trail system but not mud-up-to-our-knees pilgrims. He was kind and concerned and gave us an alternative route on the road-bound St. Swithuns Way to reconnect with the river further downstream in Itchen Abbas, where we ducked into the church of St. John the Baptist just in time for the skies to open in downpour.
Detour off the river
Over the hill
We passed through wildflower fields and ancient woods, strolled along wet hedges and misty alleyways. We stopped at a pub and had delicious homemade pizza to warm us and revive our soggy spirits and to get our newest stamp to add to our pilgrim's passport. Medieval pilgrims would not have had these fun little cards to stamp along the way but they would have purchased little pilgrim badges stamped in tin or made with lead molds with the names of local churches and holy sites stamped into them. Some pilgrims collected the badges and wore them like our grandmothers and moms would have worn a charm bracelet. Some pilgrims, finding sacred waters on the way, would place their badges into rivers and bogs as offerings for safe journey. These are still found today in marshes and bogs all over the UK and France by metal detectorists and archeologists.
St. Swithun's Church, Martyr Worthy
Saxon-Norman-Medieval beauty
With the rain coming down again we stepped into the church of St. Swithun and delighted in its beautiful interior, found another stamp, and sat a few minutes to gather our thoughts. St. Swithun, a beloved Anglo-Saxon bishop of the church in Winchester (d. 863) was credited with many miracles during and after life, but his feast day of July 2 is best known as a weather-marker date in the cycle of seasons in south England, a kind of meteorological haunting. I love these little saint's tales and this one in particular for where we happened to be and what the weather was doing. Tucked inside the 1,000 year-old church drying off and warm as the rain poured down outside, we felt like part of the good saint's story.
Entrance to Winchester from the Windall Moors
We entered the city along the River Itchen and found our lodgings in a faux-prison-themed hotel just on the outskirts of the city walls. It was a fun place! I loved my room and wanted nothing more than to take an extra long hot shower then pull on my sweat pants and hoodie to sink into the most comfortable bed under a most comforting comforter. But we wanted to see Winchester so badly that we gave ourselves a short break to freshen up then I went knocking on my cousin's door for our next adventure - to walk Winchester at night. What a beautiful twilight walk it was, full of bustle as the day had been, despite the rain.
Truly one of my favorite cathedrals - finally in-person!
The Bishop's House
Defensive walls of Winchester (Roman/Saxon/Norse) at Kingsgate
The High Street
Alfred the Great!
Walk back along the river to our hotel
We reconnoitered the old city and made plans to come back for a day after we'd finished our walk in Southampton. I'm really glad we previewed the city and so we had a good feel for its layout and access that when we returned we knew exactly where we needed to go. A very lovely city surrounded by rivers, water meadows, forest, and chalk downs.
Water meadow conservation includes keeping them operational as they may have been in the Middle Ages. I fell in love with the whole water meadow ecosystem that is part historical and part natural. I'm thinking the gentleman we met walking the flooded Itchen Way path may have been a local water meadow manager. He was so knowledgeable and a real conservationist. https://vitacress-conservation.org/stoke-mill-water-meadows/
We would walk River Itchen's Eastleigh Water Meadows further on, but this paper gives a good idea of the archeology, operations, and surviving uses of these fascinating places which on this day, Day 5, I really started to love despite being ankle deep in their workings.
Day 4 of our Camino Ingles in southern England began and ended with SUN! Glory, Glory, Hallelujah! With another another long walk ahead of us, we met Jane at the Wheatsheaf Inn early so she could shuttle us around all the messy highways and dangerous backroads back to our end point yesterday in the little thatch-roof village of Dummer. We took a little stroll around the village to admire the thatcher's good work, including their signature whimseys atop a few of the homes - ducks, geese, rooster, hound, and cat. The old church of All Saints was closed (it was early!) but we loved checking out the different periods of architecture that combined over the centuries to create the present day structure. A part of it dates to the 12th century and while we guessed at the other building styles and periods, I loved how it was both old and new(er) all in one look.
All Saints, Dummer village
Thatcher's whimseys atop the top
I haven't talked much about the reasons for our pilgrimage, and why we chose this route. I certainly don't want to assume I knew why my elder cousin had made such a long journey to walk seventy miles in England. I had my ideas but never came right out and asked. But my intentions were two-part. I was walking to participate again in the ancient practice of pilgrimage, this time as a sojourner and companion to another pilgrim. I was also walking to honor the idea of revival. Feeling revived by a fill day of sunshine, this was a good time to think about my intentions.
A very birdy estate lane
So much mud, despite the blue skies
The recovery of religious pilgrimage to the English landscape has been nothing short of remarkable, especially to me coming from a country which has very little of its own pilgrimage tradition. Pilgrimage as a practice dates back thousands of years to include people walking with intention to sacred sites during the Iron Age through the Middle ages. Pilgrimage has been an important shaper of the British landscape from Celtic-pagan times through the Middle Ages. Many of the Christian traditions, holy sites, and shrines to saints are simply layered over pre-Christian sites with "revised" meanings and Christian symbolism but in many cases the older pagan belief system shines right on through. It was great fun to find these multilayered pilgrimage sites.
St. Mary the Virgin (1190)
Medieval floor tiles
When King Henry VIII ordered the Dissolution of the Abbeys and Catholic pilgrimage ritual in 1530s, the banishment of the sacred walk or sojourn was very hard for worshippers to let go of. Pilgrims protested in York by participating in the Pilgrimage of Grace, a mass defiance against Henry's order. Other regions revolted as well, including the mass demonstration of the Lincolnshire Rising. The king's response came hard and heavy. Pilgrims, priests, nuns, bishops, and monks were murdered during violent suppressions. For a country as pedestrian as England, the banning of pilgrimage and the dissolution of the abbeys was a very bitter chapter of Britain's walking history.
Interior of St. Mary the Virgin
Celtic crosses of St. Mary the Virgin churchyard
Since 2017 the Church of England has lifted restrictions on Christian pilgrimage and with it has come a flood of interest in recovering lost routes and restoring ancient sites. The British Pilgrimage Trust is one major organization leading this rival through historical research, support for route-reopening, and marketing of pilgrim services along the many paths that have been re-created or restored.. Their landmark book Britain's Pilgrim Places by Nick Mayhew-Smith and Guy Howard (2020) is jammed-packed with routes to choose from and places to visit and, at over 500 pages of site descriptions, maps, and 2000 years of history, it would take a lifetime to walk just what is featured here. (The St. James Way is featured on pg. 16) The Church of England, too, is encouraging the return of pilgrimage as devotional walking and remembrance travel. Revived interest in ancient histories and walking traditions has brought new interest to old sites like Hadrian's Wall (Roman) and those featured by English Heritage.
Pilgrim's Tea at Candover Valley Community Store
A community's labor of love
I love this history of revival and I love the landscapes that are being revived because of it. By Day 4 we had passed through so many nature reserves and conservation areas that are accessible by footpath. Folks we met enjoying their daily walks (mostly with dogs), birding, or riding, were excited to share with us news of a fish species returning, the restoration of bird species like the Red Kite or Crane, or their latest sightings of the Water Vole ( the top favorite). To walk from village to village, across a city, or cross-country on this restored route, immersed us in both the human and natural history and gave us ample opportunity to meet people and talk about what we were seeing and the changes they were experiencing on the land. The good folks at the Candover Valley Community Store chatted us up for some time! We not only received a pilgrim stamp which they were so excited to provide for us, but they served us a proper tea for our mid-day rest.
We visited three churches along the Way of St. James on Day 4 - all of them special in their own unique way and history. The "old" St. Mary the Virgin was a tiny but ancient church built by Saxons originally. It was changed over time to include - then lose - its bell tower (bellcote) and long transepts so that now it is just a little hut of a chancel. We spent a good while in this old place, trying to decipher the wall paintings and architectural features important to Saxon stone masons. We next visited the "new" St. Mary the Virgin almost across the road in Preston Candover with its 19th century modern atmosphere - a soaring and colorful vault ceiling stenciled with floral designs. Our last church visit, the Church of St. James, was also a delight and we spent a lot of time here admiring the woven wheat corn dollies, a delightful connection to Celtic pagan traditions for end-of-harvest season.
Cross harvested wheat fields
Down beautiful Beech-lined lanes
Church of St. James
The flower arrangements here were astounding
I have to admit that this day introduced to me a new hobby for when visiting England - to search for stone-scratched sundials on very old churches. We found three today and of course I took way too many pictures of them. Dating to to Anglo-Saxon times, these sundials were incised into the priest's door of Saxon churches. They served to tell the priest when mass times were by inserting a wheat straw into the center hole - the "hand" of the sundial - to cast a shadow on the prescribed lines of hours of mass. It became an obsession to go look for them. When I saw a large collection of them at the British Museum later on the following week (which I found in a book on Anglo-Saxon sundials) it was good to know I wasn't the only one who couldn't get enough of them. I did not buy the book. It was heavy. The author took way more pictures than I did.
Pew-end wheat corn dollies were amazingly intricate
Pagan and Christian together
Sundials for mass times
Somehow we missed a turn and wound up walking a few extra miles until we strolled into New Alresford, a charming market town in the dark (!!) lit by streetlamps and the warm lights of interior rooms of shops and pubs. Though our official route map stated that the day would end in town at 11.5 miles, we noted that it was probably because of our good mood on this sun-splashed day that we didn't even notice we'd walk a few extra steps - errmmm - miles. Anyway, our room at The Swan Inn in Alresford was a delight and the dinner so delicious.
Notes:
The British Pilgrimage Trust works to re-establish pilgrimage routes and provide modern pilgrims with resources on lodgings and accommodations, places to eat, etc. while promoting local and cross-country pilgrimage as making good economic sense (as it was in the past!) for local villages and towns. This organization combines both pedestrian travel, bridleways, and biking networks in their routes
We came across several ancient churches under the care of The Churches Conservation Trust - my hands down favorite being Old St. Mary the Virgin in Preston Candover on Day 4.
